Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions as a bioadhesive block copolymer, leveraging its unique structure to adhere strongly to moist skin for over 24 hours. Upon hydration, it forms a swollen hydrogel capable of entraining up to 20 times its weight in water. Once applied and dried, it creates an invisible, water-insoluble film on the skin surface. This film not only provides durable hydration by preventing transepidermal water loss (TEWL) but also acts as a controlled delivery system for other active ingredients, while contributing to product viscosity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 A clinical evaluation demonstrated a substantial increase in skin moisture, reaching up to 3 times the baseline level within one hour of a single application, with benefits persisting after rehydration. This effect was notably enhanced when co-formulated with other hydrating botanical actives, leading to significant improvements in overall hydration and reduction of transepidermal water loss (TEWL).
- 02 Independent clinical testing confirmed the formation of a durable, invisible, water-insoluble film that exhibits strong bio-adhesion, maintaining its integrity on the skin for over 24 hours, even following multiple washings with soap and water.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
This copolymer is designed to disperse in water, forming a swollen hydrogel capable of entraining up to 20 times its weight in water. Upon application and the evaporation of the cosmetic's bulk moisture, it transforms into an invisible, water-insoluble film that adheres strongly to the skin.
Synergies
- Enhances the efficacy of moisture-loving botanical actives, leading to superior hydration and TEWL reduction.
Conflicts
- Incompatible with nitrosating systems and necessitates storage in nitrite-free containers to prevent the formation of nitrosamines. For related copolymers, a maximum nitrosamine content of 50 µg/kg and secondary amine content of 0.5% in finished products, with a minimum raw material purity of 99%, are recommended.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Panel has deemed acrylamide/acrylate copolymers, the class to which this ingredient belongs, as safe for use in cosmetics under current practices and concentrations. While specific use concentrations for this ingredient are not provided, guidelines for related copolymers include restrictions on nitrosating systems and limits on residual acrylamide content (0.1 mg/kg for leave-on body products and 0.5 mg/kg for other cosmetic applications). It is rated 'LOW' by EWG for Cancer, Allergies & Immunotoxicity, and Developmental and Reproductive Toxicity, and is not on their Restricted or Unacceptable Lists.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A valuable ingredient for advanced formulations, offering long-lasting hydration, robust film-forming bio-adhesion, and enhanced active delivery with a favorable safety profile.
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References
Sources