Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient is a sophisticated cross-linked silicone elastomer, featuring a dimethicone backbone integrated with short polyether (PEG-10 and PEG-15) chains. Its unique three-dimensional gel network structure is highly effective at thickening formulations and suspending various oils. The appended PEG side-chains render the elastomer surface amphiphilic, enabling it to interact with both silicone oils and water, thereby acting as a potent water-in-silicone emulsifier. It facilitates the formation of remarkably stable emulsions and micelle structures that strategically break upon application, making it ideal for 'water drop' formulations. Upon contact with the skin, it establishes a fine, soft, and durable film that significantly improves product spreadability and imparts a smooth, comfortable sensation. Furthermore, its ability to absorb excess sebum results in a non-greasy, matte finish, particularly beneficial for individuals with oily skin. Beyond these, it acts as an oil-soluble carrier, enhancing the uniform distribution of sunscreens and colorants, and contributes to the optical blurring of fine lines for an improved skin appearance.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 Functional efficacy across various cosmetic applications.
- 02 Primary emulsification, viscosity, and structure in W/Si formulations.
- 03 'Soft-focus' effect and sebum mattifying finish in primers.
- 04 Enhances silicone top-feel in hybrid O/W formulations.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
As a cross-linked silicone elastomer, this ingredient is typically incorporated into formulations to create gels or stabilize emulsions, and is not associated with dusting.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Maintains stability within a pH range of 3.5 to 7.0 and can tolerate moderate salt levels. For maximum long-term stability in Water-in-Silicone (W/Si) creams or gels, it is recommended to combine it with a low-HLB silicone copolyol (e.g., PEG-10 dimethicone). When formulating hybrid Oil-in-Water (O/W) products, it should be post-added at temperatures below 40 °C to prevent air entrapment.
Synergies
- Low-HLB silicone copolyols (e.g., PEG-10 Dimethicone) for enhanced W/Si emulsion stability.
Conflicts
- High concentrations of ethanol (exceeding 20%)
- Strong bases (pH levels above 10)
- Processing temperatures above 80°C
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed DIMETHICONE/PEG-10/15 CROSSPOLYMER (often referred to interchangeably with DIMETHICONE/PEG-15 CROSSPOLYMER) safe for use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 3% in leave-on products. More broadly, dimethicone crosspolymers have been reported safe up to 25% in leave-on products. It holds a 'safe for general or specific, limited use in food' designation by the US FDA and is rated 'LOW' by EWG for cancer, allergies, immunotoxicity, and developmental/reproductive toxicity concerns.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
DIMETHICONE/PEG-15 CROSSPOLYMER is a highly valuable ingredient for its multifunctional properties, delivering superior emulsion stability, an elegant skin feel, sebum control, and optical blurring effects across a wide range of cosmetic applications.
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