Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient is a cross-linked silicone elastomer featuring a dimethicone backbone with grafted polyether (PEG-10 and PEG-15) chains. This unique amphiphilic structure allows it to form a three-dimensional gel network, effectively thickening formulas, suspending oils, and acting as a primary emulsifier for water-in-silicone (W/Si) and W/O/W emulsions. It can stabilize a high internal water phase, up to 90%, and build viscosity, creating soft, cushiony gel matrices. Beyond structural benefits, it improves sensory properties, imparting a silky slip, a quick-dry, powdery after-feel, and contributing to optical blurring of fine lines. It also aids in uniform distribution of sunscreens and colorants on the skin.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 Reported use across 51 leave-on cosmetic products, indicating broad application and safety.
- 02 Effective concentration range in water-releasing cosmetic compositions, based on composition weight, suggesting its utility in such formulations.
- 03 A solution of the polymer in dimethicone was found to be non-irritating in a human patch test involving 45 subjects, supporting its excellent skin tolerance.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
As a silicone elastomer and gel network former, this ingredient is designed to integrate smoothly into formulations rather than creating a 'dusting' effect on the skin.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The ingredient exhibits stability within a pH range of approximately 4 to 9, with some sources indicating stability from 3.5 to 7. It tolerates moderate salt levels, making it suitable for formulas rich in active ingredients. Though water solubility is low (<0.1 g/L at 20°C), its amphiphilic nature allows it to be water dispersible, forming stable emulsions with both water and oil phases.
Conflicts
- Very high levels of ethanol (exceeding 20%)
- Strong bases (pH greater than 10)
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed dimethicone crosspolymer ingredients, including Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, safe for use in cosmetics under typical concentrations and practices. Its high molecular weight restricts dermal absorption, contributing to a low systemic exposure risk. Furthermore, a 20-30% solution of the polymer in dimethicone demonstrated non-irritancy in human skin patch tests.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
DIMETHICONE/PEG-10/15 CROSSPOLYMER is a valuable multifunctional ingredient, enhancing product stability, texture, and sensory attributes across all skin types, with a strong safety profile.
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