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DICETEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE.

Valuable CAS 135620-20-1 / 501901-81-1 / SKIN CONDITIONING

A high-performance plant-derived ester that functions as a sophisticated skin conditioner and structural emollient. It provides a luxurious, protective veil on the skin surface, making it a staple for formulations requiring long-lasting hydration and a smooth finish.

Emollient Skin conditioning agent Occlusive Texture enhancer

Science

This high-molecular-weight diester (1000-1700 Da) creates a breathable, occlusive barrier that effectively traps moisture by reducing transepidermal water loss (TEWL). Due to its substantial molecular size, it remains on the skin's surface to provide persistent lubrication and texture refinement without risk of systemic absorption or deeper epidermal penetration.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.05–53%
Optimal

1.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Human clinical testing at 10% concentration confirmed the ingredient is non-irritating and non-sensitizing.
  2. 02 Safety assessments for lip-care applications validated concentrations up to 53% as safe due to lack of dermal absorption.
  3. 03 Advanced skincare patent data suggests a range of 0.05% to 1.5% is effective for enhancing barrier function and skin texture.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.05%

While it is safe at very high levels in color cosmetics, in precision skincare, even small percentages (0.5%+) significantly contribute to barrier repair. Concentrations below 0.05% may be considered 'label dusting' if the claim is skin texture improvement.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

Exhibits excellent stability in anhydrous (water-free) systems and remains stable within the standard physiological pH range. It may undergo hydrolysis if exposed to extreme acidity or alkalinity.

Synergies

  • Lipophilic active ingredients
  • Ceramides
  • Squalane

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Formulations with pH below 3.0 or above 10.0

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
53%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Reaffirmed safe by the CIR in 2023. Its large molecular size ensures it does not penetrate the skin barrier, making it exceptionally safe for sensitive areas and long-term use.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An expertly tolerated, high-molecular-weight emollient that provides superior barrier protection and smoothing without irritating sensitive skin.


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