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DEXTRIN PALMITATE/ETHYLHEXANOATE.

Valuable CAS 183387-52-2 / ANTICAKING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

Dextrin Palmitate/Ethylhexanoate is a multi-functional ester widely utilized in skincare for its amphiphilic structure, acting primarily as an emulsifier, thickener, and emollient. It significantly improves product texture, enhances stability, and contributes to a smooth, pleasant sensory feel on the skin.

Summary

Emulsifying Thickening Emollient Surfactant Anticaking Texture enhancing

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions as a surfactant by leveraging its amphiphilic nature, possessing both hydrophilic and lipophilic characteristics. This molecular architecture enables it to reduce surface tension at the oil-water interface, thereby stabilizing emulsions. Within formulations, it also contributes to thickening and improved texture. On the skin, it provides emollient properties, helping to maintain moisture levels and supporting skin elasticity, while potentially enhancing the penetration of other ingredients.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.1–10%
Optimal

N/A

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

Readily soluble in various oils, including esters, paraffins, and vegetable oils, but insoluble in water. It typically requires heating to 70-90°C with consistent stirring for complete dissolution in the oil phase, forming stable, thermo-reversible gels with thixotropic properties. While generally stable, it can exhibit sensitivity to oxidation when exposed to sunlight or air. It also enhances pigment dispersion and modifies the texture of waxes.

Conflicts

  • strong oxidizing agents

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Insufficient data
Sensitization risk Low

Generally regarded as safe for use in cosmetic and personal care products, non-toxic, and not associated with adverse effects when used as directed. A CIR safety assessment on polysaccharide gums, which included Dextrin Palmitate/Ethylhexanoate, noted that a related compound (dextrin palmitate) showed no evidence of skin irritation or sensitization. SkinSAFE classifies it as 'Irritant Free' and 'Fragrance Free'. However, individuals prone to fungal acne may consider avoiding products containing this ingredient due to its potential to exacerbate symptoms.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Dextrin Palmitate/Ethylhexanoate is a valuable ingredient for enhancing formulation stability, texture, and delivering emollient benefits, demonstrating broad skin compatibility with a low irritancy and comedogenicity profile.

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