Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient operates through a multi-pathway approach: it suppresses pro-inflammatory mediators like nitric oxide and TNF-α while actively stimulating IL-10, an anti-inflammatory cytokine, at concentrations as low as 5 µg/mL. Furthermore, it exhibits potent antimicrobial action by disrupting the plasma membranes of pathogens, including Cutibacterium acnes, and offers high-level antioxidant protection with a 92.7% nitric oxide scavenging rate.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated minimum inhibitory concentrations (MIC) against skin-relevant Gram-positive bacteria between 125-300 µg/mL.
- 02 Achieved 92.7% nitric oxide scavenging and 74% metal chelating activity in antioxidant assays.
- 03 Stimulated anti-inflammatory IL-10 production in human monocytes at a noncytotoxic threshold of 5 µg/mL.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because this extract also functions as a fragrance component, it is frequently included at very low percentages (below 0.1%) for its scent profile. To achieve the documented antimicrobial and anti-inflammatory benefits, concentrations must align with the higher microgram-per-milliliter ranges seen in clinical data.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly volatile and susceptible to photodegradation; ideally formulated within inclusion complexes like β-cyclodextrin or stabilized with corn starch to preserve phenolic integrity.
Synergies
- Tween 80 (for micellar solubilization)
- Corn starch (phenolic stabilization)
Conflicts
- Lactose monohydrate
Safety
Safety Profile
Recognized by the European Commission as a potential skin allergen. While it carries a low acute toxicity profile (LD50 > 5000 mg/kg), its status as an established contact allergen requires patch testing for reactive skin types.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A high-performance botanical that excels at balancing oily and inflamed skin, though its potential for sensitization necessitates precise formulation.
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