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Moumoujus

CYMBOPOGON CITRATUS LEAF.

Questionable CAS 89998-14-1 / FRAGRANCE, SKIN CONDITIONING

Cymbopogon citratus leaf, commonly known as lemongrass, is a botanical ingredient derived from the plant's foliage, often utilized as an essential oil or extract in skincare. It is recognized for its multifaceted biological activities, including significant antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory, and antioxidant properties. However, its high concentration of active compounds necessitates extremely careful formulation due to a notable potential for skin irritation and sensitization.

Summary

Antimicrobial Antibacterial Anti-inflammatory Antioxidant Astringent Sebum Regulating Hydration Enhancer Skin Barrier Support Anti-aging Masking Perfuming

Science

Mechanism of Action

Cymbopogon citratus leaf exerts its dermatological effects through several key mechanisms. Its primary components, such as citral and limonene, impart potent antimicrobial and antibacterial actions, effectively inhibiting microbial growth, particularly Cutibacterium acnes. Anti-inflammatory benefits stem from compounds like citral and geraniol, which help mitigate skin redness and swelling. As an antioxidant, it neutralizes free radicals, offering protection against environmental damage and supporting cellular repair. The ingredient also demonstrates astringent qualities, contributing to pore refinement and sebum regulation, while enhancing epidermal hydration and skin barrier function. Furthermore, research indicates inhibitory activities against enzymes like elastase, collagenase, and lipase, which contribute to anti-aging and skin clarity.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.001–9%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated robust antioxidant activity (DPPH, TEAC, nitric oxide-scavenging) and significant inhibitory effects on elastase and collagenase enzymes. Notably, it exhibited 74.08% lipase inhibitory activity at 10 µg/ml and antimicrobial activity against Cutibacterium acnes, indicating benefits for acne-prone skin and anti-aging.
  2. 02 Formulated into an anti-aging cream, this concentration led to observed improvements in skin moisture, enhanced evenness, reduced pore appearance, and a noticeable decrease in spots and wrinkles.
  3. 03 Provided a protective anti-inflammatory effect on human skin, evidenced by reduced transepidermal water loss, decreased blood perfusion, and a visible reduction in erythema and edema. Improvements in epidermal hydration and skin barrier integrity were also recorded.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The provided research data does not contain information regarding dusting practices or specific dusting thresholds for Cymbopogon citratus leaf.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Conflicts

  • Direct, undiluted application is strictly contraindicated due to the high risk of severe irritation and potential chemical burns.
  • Formulations intended for sensitive skin types, given its potent irritancy potential, which can manifest as redness, itching, and burning sensations.
  • Products for dry or compromised skin, as it can excessively strip natural oils, leading to significant peeling, discomfort, and a weakened skin barrier.
  • Skincare targeting acne-prone skin, where its harsh drying effects might paradoxically stimulate increased sebum production, potentially leading to more breakouts.
  • Daytime applications, as it may heighten skin's sensitivity to UV radiation, suggesting a preference for evening use with appropriate precautions.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Sensitization risk High

The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel deemed similar Citrus-derived peel oils safe with restrictions, particularly limiting 5-methoxysporalen (5-MOP) to 0.0015% (15 ppm) in leave-on products and requiring non-sensitizing, non-irritating formulations. The Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) indicates Citral, a major component, is generally safe at proposed concentrations but advises further research for sensitive skin or known allergies. Cymbopogon citratus leaf oil is classified as a regulated allergen in Europe. Its highly concentrated form can induce significant skin irritation, redness, itching, or burning sensations, particularly in individuals with sensitive skin. It is a known common allergen. While not classified as phototoxic, it can still increase UV sensitivity, making it potentially unsuitable for daytime use without rigorous sun protection. Meticulous dilution with carrier oils and prior patch testing are critical to minimize the high risks of irritation and chemical burns associated with undiluted application.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
No Dry
Yes Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy High
Comedogenicity Medium

Our Assessment

Verdict

Questionable

Despite exhibiting compelling clinical benefits across anti-aging, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory pathways, the high potential for skin irritation, sensitization, and incompatibility with sensitive, dry, or acne-prone skin types renders Cymbopogon citratus leaf a questionable choice for precision skincare formulations unless rigorously diluted and specifically targeted for non-sensitive skin types and evening use.

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