Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract derives its extensive skin benefits from a rich profile of bioactive compounds, including cordycepin, polysaccharides, adenosine, phenolic compounds, and flavonoids. It functions as a powerful antioxidant by neutralizing reactive oxygen species (ROS), thereby mitigating oxidative stress and contributing to anti-aging effects. Its anti-inflammatory capabilities help to soothe conditions like eczema, psoriasis, and rosacea. Furthermore, it stimulates skin regeneration and wound healing by boosting the proliferation of keratinocytes and fibroblasts, crucial for tissue repair and barrier integrity. The extract also enhances collagen and elastin synthesis for improved firmness and elasticity, inhibits melanin production for skin brightening, and improves microcirculation. Adenosine content further supports cell renewal and fortifies the skin barrier, while its antibacterial action targets various skin pathogens including *Staphylococcus aureus*, *Pseudomonas aeruginosa*, and *Cutibacterium acnes*. Potential activation of sirtuins also links it to skin longevity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence1%
Key findings
- 01 Enhanced keratinocyte migration by 43% in in vitro wound models within 48 hours, suggesting accelerated tissue formation and minimized scar development.
- 02 When incorporated into a serum product, this concentration demonstrated robust antioxidant and antimicrobial capabilities, alongside superior stability compared to higher concentrations (2% or 3%).
- 03 Exhibited anti-atopic dermatitis effects in both in vitro cell cultures and in vivo mouse models, reducing epidermal/dermal thickness and mast cell infiltration.
- 04 Significantly inhibited the growth of various skin pathogenic bacteria, including *Staphylococcus aureus*, *Pseudomonas aeruginosa*, *Cutibacterium acnes*, and MRSA, with inhibition zones ranging from 12.17–20.50 mm.
- 05 Determined Minimal Inhibitory Concentration (MIC) and Minimal Bactericidal Concentration (MBC) values against MRSA, *P. aeruginosa*, *C. acnes*, and *S. aureus*, with ethanolic extracts showing the lowest MIC/MBC of 3.91 mg/mL against MRSA.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The provided research does not indicate Cordyceps militaris extract as a commonly 'dusted' ingredient, nor does it suggest specific concentrations that would serve as a red flag for dusting.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
A 1% extract in a serum formulation maintained good stability (color, scent, homogeneity, pH, appearance) across various temperatures (4°C, 28-30°C, 40°C) for 28 days. Higher concentrations (2-3%) showed reduced stability after 14 days. The pigment cordycepene is sensitive to light, temperatures ≥60°C, and acidic conditions (pH ≤ 3); these should be avoided to preserve ingredient integrity. High extraction temperatures can also impart an undesirable mushroom taste.
Conflicts
- Light exposure (for cordycepene)
- High temperatures (≥60°C) (for cordycepene)
- Acidic conditions (pH ≤ 3) (for cordycepene)
- Higher concentrations (>1% in serum formulations may reduce stability)
Safety
Safety Profile
The overall safety profile of *Cordyceps militaris* is generally considered good, with a low incidence of mild irritation (<5% of users). It is not known to infect humans. While *Cordyceps sinensis* has received EU authorization as a food and dietary supplement ingredient, *Cordyceps militaris* has not undergone specific EU cosmetic regulation review, nor has it been reviewed by CIR, SCCS, or FDA for cosmetic use. Further regulatory assessment for cosmetic applications is pending.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Cordyceps militaris extract is a highly valuable ingredient for advanced skincare formulations, offering a broad spectrum of scientifically supported benefits from cellular repair and anti-aging to antimicrobial protection, with a favorable safety profile.
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