Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient synergistically delivers the actions of its constituent parts. Copper peptides, similar to GHK-Cu or Copper Tripeptide-1, are known to stimulate collagen and elastin production, aid in wound healing, and exhibit potent antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects. They also support epidermal stem cell function and can modulate gene expression for skin repair and reduced photodamage. The ascorbyl phosphate component, a stable form of vitamin C, provides additional antioxidant protection and contributes to collagen synthesis.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence1%
Key findings
- 01 Studies on GHK-Cu showed increased expression of integrins and p63, vital markers for maintaining active proliferative epidermal stem cells, at concentrations of 0.1-10 microM.
- 02 Research on GHK-Cu demonstrated stimulation of both collagen and glycosaminoglycan synthesis and breakdown, along with modulation of metalloproteinases, which collectively support wound healing and skin remodeling at 1-10 nanomolar concentrations.
- 03 A human skin penetration study confirmed that copper tripeptide, at a 0.68% aqueous solution, effectively penetrates the stratum corneum, epidermis, and dermis over 48 hours.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Information regarding dusting is not available in the provided research data.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Optimal performance and stability are observed in a neutral to slightly acidic pH range of 6.0-7.0, which is consistent with both copper peptides (like GHK-Cu) and ascorbyl phosphate derivatives.
Conflicts
- Strong acids (e.g., lactic acid, salicylic acid, fruit acid, mandelic acid) can chelate copper ions, thereby inactivating the copper peptide component.
- VA alcohols and derivatives (e.g., retinoids) may react to form turbid, viscous substances and inactivate copper ions.
- L-Ascorbic Acid (pure Vitamin C) and certain low-pH Vitamin C derivatives could lead to redox reactions that compromise the efficacy of both ingredients.
Safety
Safety Profile
While the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has deemed individual components like Ascorbic Acid, Ascorbates, and Tripeptide-1 (a component of GHK-Cu) safe in cosmetic applications, there is no specific CIR, SCCS, or FDA assessment for COPPER ASCORBYL PHOSPHATE SUCCINOYL TRIPEPTIDE-34 as a combined ingredient. Copper Tripeptide-1 is generally considered safe up to 1%, with higher concentrations potentially causing irritation.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This complex ingredient, building on the well-researched benefits of its copper peptide and vitamin C derivative components, offers comprehensive support for skin regeneration, antioxidant defense, and overall skin health.
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