Science
Mechanism of Action
This molecule functions by reactivating senescent (dormant) fibroblasts, which are the skin's primary collagen and elastin factories. It delivers a source of bio-available copper to activate lysyl oxidase—an enzyme essential for the cross-linking and maturation of structural proteins—while providing lysine and proline as building blocks for the synthesis of Collagen I (+179%), Collagen III (+194%), and Elastin (+190%).
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence1%
Key findings
- 01 A 0.5% concentration increased total collagen by 6.8% and elastin production by 190% within 11 days compared to untreated skin.
- 02 A 1.0% concentration in a double-blind study demonstrated a significant reduction in wrinkle depth and volume over a 15-day period.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to its high cost and potent clinical data, many brands include this ingredient at trace levels purely for label claims. Concentrations below 0.5% are unlikely to trigger the rapid structural protein synthesis observed in clinical trials.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly temperature-sensitive; must be formulated below 45°C to maintain peptide integrity. It is incompatible with low-pH environments.
Synergies
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Glycerin
- Non-acidic peptides
Conflicts
- L-Ascorbic Acid
- Retinoids
- Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
- Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs)
Safety
Safety Profile
While not specifically reviewed by the CIR, its related compound, Copper Gluconate, is FDA GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe). Patch testing is recommended for those with hyper-sensitive skin due to the potential for minor irritation with copper-based actives.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptional precision-aging active that delivers rapid, measurable improvements in skin density and elasticity, provided it is formulated at a clinical concentration of at least 0.5%.
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References
Sources
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- newageskin.care ↗
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