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Moumoujus

COLEUS FORSKOHLII FLOWER EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS - / SKIN CONDITIONING

Coleus Forskohlii Flower Extract, while derived from the same botanical source as the extensively researched root, is considered for its potential skin benefits. The species is recognized for its capacity to promote melanogenesis, provide antioxidant defense, and deliver soothing hydration to the skin.

Summary

Antioxidant Skin-soothing Humectant Melanogenesis Promoter Anti-inflammatory UV Protective (surface shielding, not a sunscreen replacement)

Science

Mechanism of Action

The primary bioactive component, forskolin—predominantly concentrated in the root of the Coleus forskohlii plant—acts by directly activating adenylate cyclase. This process leads to a significant increase in intracellular cyclic AMP (cAMP) levels. In skin cells, elevated cAMP stimulates the production of UV-protective eumelanin, notably by circumventing defective melanocortin-1 receptor (MC1R) signaling. Beyond this, the extract demonstrates antioxidant capabilities, helps alleviate signs of puffiness and uneven texture, and exhibits anti-inflammatory action by blocking histamines. It also functions as a humectant, drawing environmental moisture to hydrate and soften the skin, and may enhance the expression of Stem Cell Factor (SCF) and Basic Fibroblast Growth Factor (bFGF), further supporting melanogenesis.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.01–15%
Optimal

5.0-8.0%

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 6.5 – 7.1
0 7 14

Stability

Optimal stability for cosmetic formulations containing Coleus forskohlii extract is achieved within a pH range of 6.5 to 7.1, with a preferred pH of 6.8. For maximum shelf life, store in tightly sealed containers, away from direct heat, moisture, and intense light. The extract demonstrates partial solubility in water and is soluble in ethanol; water-soluble variations are commercially available.

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Insufficient data
Sensitization risk Low

Specific CIR or SCCS safety assessments for topical cosmetic use of Coleus Forskohlii Flower Extract are not currently available; the existing safety data predominantly pertains to the root extract. EWG Skin Deep rates Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract as 'LOW' for allergies and immunotoxicity. Paula's Choice indicates low irritancy for the root extract on skin, distinguishing it from the plant's leaves which can be problematic. Oral intake studies revealing mild gastrointestinal events and high-dose animal liver damage are not directly translatable to topical applications. FDA status for cosmetic use remains unknown.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

Coleus Forskohlii Flower Extract holds valuable potential for melanogenesis stimulation, antioxidant, and soothing benefits across all skin types; however, it is critical to note that the robust scientific literature predominantly references the root extract, not the flower, for these effects.

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