Science
Mechanism of Action
This powder is a complex blend of coixenolide, triglycerides, polysaccharides, phytosterols, polyphenols (like ferulic and caffeic acid), lignans, adenosines, and various vitamins (thiamine, riboflavin, niacin, ascorbic acid). Its mechanism involves multi-pathway action: it acts as an antioxidant, shielding skin from external pro-aging factors. It significantly contributes to skin brightening by inhibiting tyrosinase activity, which is crucial for reducing excess pigment and the appearance of dark spots. Furthermore, it deeply moisturizes by replenishing cellular water content, alleviating tightness. Anti-inflammatory benefits stem from its ability to inhibit histamine release, IL-31, suppress tryptase expression, and lower nitric oxide production, thereby soothing redness and irritation. This multifaceted action also supports skin barrier strength, promotes natural regeneration, and refines texture.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 An in vitro study demonstrated that a 1 mg/mL concentration of a compound derived from soft-shelled adlay (Coixol) inhibited tyrosinase activity by 48.4% in B16F10 melanocytes and by 50.7% on human tyrosinase (hTyr) fragment 369–377, indicating significant pigment reduction potential.
- 02 Research using mouse-derived spleen cells showed a concentration-dependent increase in mast cell proliferation up to 100 μg/mL, with proliferation inhibited at 200 μg/mL, suggesting immunomodulatory effects relevant to soothing irritation.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The provided research does not indicate this ingredient is commonly used at sub-efficacious concentrations for marketing purposes.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The powder form may exhibit hygroscopic properties, necessitating careful storage. Its diverse bioactive profile, including water-soluble polyphenolics and both polar (polysaccharides) and non-polar (lipids) components, can be effectively extracted using ethanol/water mixtures.
Safety
Safety Profile
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) has deemed Coix Lacryma-Jobi Seed Oil safe for cosmetic use. While the powder/extract itself is not explicitly listed in all CIR summaries, European Union regulations consider this ingredient safe. It is generally considered non-irritating, with no known harmful side effects reported for the fermented seed filtrate in cosmetic products, making it suitable for sensitive skin. However, individuals with grain sensitivities may experience rare reactions such as irritation or redness, for which a patch test is recommended.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Coix Lacryma-Jobi Ma-Yuen Seed Powder is a valuable multi-active ingredient that delivers significant antioxidant, brightening, hydrating, and soothing benefits, making it suitable for a broad range of skin concerns and types.
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