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Moumoujus

COFFEE SEED OIL POLYGLYCERYL-6 ESTERS.

Valuable CAS - / SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

A sophisticated, plant-derived multifunctional ester that combines the emulsifying properties of polyglycerol with the bioactive lipid profile of cold-pressed green coffee oil. This amphiphilic ingredient serves to both stabilize complex formulations and deliver concentrated omega-6 fatty acids and antioxidants to the skin barrier.

Summary

Emollient Emulsifier Skin-Conditioning Agent Antioxidant Support

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions as both a structural emulsifier and a bio-active emollient. It facilitates the stabilization of oil-in-water emulsions while delivering linoleic acid (omega-6), phytosterols, and Vitamin E to the stratum corneum. Mechanistically, it mimics the effects of green coffee oil by upregulating Aquaporin-3 (AQP-3) expression to improve hydric balance and stimulating the synthesis of collagen, elastin, and glycosaminoglycans within the extracellular matrix via TGF-beta1 signaling.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 3.12–50%
Optimal

N/A

Key findings

  1. 01 In vitro and ex vivo models using concentrations between 3.12 and 50.0 mg/mL demonstrated dose-dependent stimulation of collagen and elastin. At 25.0 mg/mL, a significant induction of AQP-3 mRNA was observed, enhancing skin hydration and physiological balance.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Because it functions effectively as an emulsifier at very low concentrations, it is frequently used at 'label claim' levels (under 0.5%) to market coffee-related benefits without providing sufficient lipid replenishment or antioxidant protection.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH N/A
0 7 14

Stability

Highly versatile emulsifier that contributes to the long-term stability of both O/W and W/O emulsions. No known pH sensitivity within standard cosmetic ranges (pH 4.0–7.0).

Synergies

  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Glycerin
  • Ceramides
  • Tocopherol

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe with restrictions
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Classified under the Polyglyceryl Fatty Acid Esters family, which the CIR Expert Panel deems safe when formulated to be non-irritating. The coffee seed oil component is Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS).

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Unknown

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An excellent hybrid ingredient that provides essential formulation stability while delivering the restorative, collagen-supporting benefits of green coffee lipids.

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