Science
Mechanism of Action
Citrus Unshiu Extract functions as a potent skin-lightening agent by inhibiting tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanin synthesis. Its rich composition of flavonoids, carotenoids, and other tocopherol analogues provides strong antioxidant defense against free radicals and UV-induced damage. The extract also exhibits anti-inflammatory and anti-allergic effects through mechanisms such as inhibiting nitric oxide, reducing inflammatory chemokines TARC and MDC (via STAT1 phosphorylation inhibition), and suppressing various pro-inflammatory mediators (TNF-α, IL-6). For anti-aging and moisturizing, it enhances hyaluronic acid production, boosts collagen biosynthesis, and reduces collagenase activity, promoting overall skin rejuvenation.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 In in vivo tests, 71% of panelists demonstrated a significant reduction in age spot pigmentation.
- 02 An EtOH extract reduced DNCB-induced symptoms of atopic dermatitis (hyperkeratosis, increased skin thickness, infiltrated mast cells) in an AD mouse model and inhibited mRNA expression and protein production of TARC and MDC in human keratinocytes.
- 03 A fermented extract showed photoprotective effects against ultraviolet-A-induced photoaging in human dermal fibroblasts (in vitro).
- 04 A fermented extract increased collagen biosynthesis in human dermal fibroblasts exposed to ultraviolet radiation and demonstrated a decrease in photoaging skin (in vitro).
- 05 An FCU extract improved skin moisturizing efficacy by inducing the production of SPT and Filaggrin in immortalized human HaCaT keratinocytes (in vitro).
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
For optimal stability, store in a cool, dry, well-ventilated area with desiccant, away from high temperatures and direct sunlight, in a closed container. As with all citrus extracts, the presence of volatile fragrance chemicals necessitates careful formulation; products with significant limonene content should be stabilized with antioxidants to maintain a peroxide value below 20 millimoles peroxides per liter to prevent potential skin aggravation.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel has deemed citrus peel-derived ingredients, including Citrus Unshiu Extract, safe for cosmetic use (both rinse-off and leave-on) when formulated to be non-sensitizing and non-irritating. A critical restriction for leave-on products is that the final formulation must not contain more than 0.0015% (15 ppm) of 5-methoxypsoralen (5-MOP). Due to the presence of volatile fragrance chemicals, these extracts may be classified as fragrance allergens by the SCCS, indicating a potential for sensitization or irritation in susceptible individuals. Citrus fruits are generally recognized as safe (GRAS) by the FDA for food use.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Citrus Unshiu Extract is a valuable, multifaceted ingredient offering significant benefits in skin brightening, anti-aging, and soothing formulations, provided its 5-MOP content is carefully controlled to ensure optimal safety.
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