Science
Mechanism of Action
It functions via a multi-pathway approach: providing a natural astringent effect to constrict pores and manage sebum, while deploying flavonoids to neutralize free radicals. Furthermore, it exhibits antimicrobial properties by disrupting the nucleic acid synthesis and cell wall integrity of opportunistic pathogens.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence2%
Key findings
- 01 Concentrations up to 6% have been safely utilized in skin cleansing preparations for mechanical and chemical conditioning.
- 02 A 2.0% formulation was clinically observed to be non-phototoxic and non-sensitizing in controlled animal models.
- 03 In vitro DPPH assays confirm potent radical scavenging activity with IC50 values as low as 102.21 µg/mL for specific ethanol extracts.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
This ingredient is frequently included at sub-therapeutic levels (<0.1%) solely for its aromatic masking properties. To achieve meaningful antioxidant or astringent benefits, concentrations should ideally align with the 1.25%–2.0% range observed in efficacy data.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The extract demonstrates peak stability in acidic environments (pH 3.5–5.5); aqueous variations naturally stabilize at approximately pH 4.30.
Synergies
- L-Ascorbic Acid
- Niacinamide
- Tocopherol
Conflicts
- Unprotected UV exposure (if 5-MOP content is high)
- Strong alkaline formulations
Safety
Safety Profile
Safety is contingent on the restriction of furocoumarins; leave-on products must contain less than 15 ppm of 5-methoxypsoralen (5-MOP) to mitigate phototoxicity risks. IFRA recommends a 1.25% limit for leave-on products if the specific 5-MOP content is unverified.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A sophisticated botanical active for oily and combination skin types, offering significant antioxidant protection and lipid regulation when formulated within safety-regulated concentration limits.
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References
Sources