Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient's mechanism of action is multifaceted. Periostracum cicadae extract offers significant photoprotection and anti-inflammatory benefits by modulating reactive oxygen species (ROS) and attenuating the expression of inflammatory cytokines like interleukin-6 (IL-6) and matrix metalloproteinases (MMP-2, MMP-9) in UVB-treated skin cells. It further abrogates the activation of NF-κB, p53, and AP-1 pathways while upregulating Nrf2. Its natural components, including chitin and chitosan, contribute to barrier function, reduce trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL), and possess immune-modulating properties. Amino acids and peptides further bolster its antioxidant profile. Cordyceps cicadae extract specifically targets hydration by promoting hyaluronan synthesis in human skin fibroblasts, primarily through the upregulation of HA synthase 2 (HAS2) and epidermal growth factor (EGF)-related genes, also exhibiting antioxidant activity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 In a murine model, Periostracum cicadae extract at 200 μg/mL effectively attenuated skin damage and significantly reduced UVB-induced erythema, showcasing remarkable photoprotective and anti-inflammatory effects. This concentration was identified as most efficacious among tested groups.
- 02 An aqueous extract of Cordyceps cicadae, when applied at 100 μg/mL to human skin fibroblasts, promoted hyaluronan synthesis, leading to an enhanced HA content of 1293 ± 142 ng/mL, a statistically significant increase compared to untreated controls.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Cicada Extract is primarily an ingredient of interest in traditional medicine and scientific research, not a commonly 'dusted' ingredient in mainstream cosmetic formulations. Therefore, specific dusting thresholds or red flag percentages for consumer deception are not applicable.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Components of both Periostracum cicadae and Cordyceps cicadae extracts are typically obtained through hot water extraction, suggesting strong water solubility. No specific data regarding the optimal pH range for stability or other detailed stability parameters for 'Cicada Extract' in cosmetic applications are currently available.
Safety
Safety Profile
No specific safety assessments by major regulatory bodies such as CIR, SCCS, or FDA exist for 'Cicada Extract' as a cosmetic ingredient. While an oral safety assessment in mice showed no significant toxicity at high doses (up to 450 mg/kg/day), this is not directly transferable to topical cosmetic safety. It is noted that 'possible allergic reactions' have been linked to the administration of animal-based remedies containing Periostracum cicadae, suggesting a potential for sensitivity in some individuals, though specific topical sensitization data is lacking.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Cicada Extract demonstrates promising preliminary *in vitro* and *in vivo* efficacy for antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating skin benefits; however, further comprehensive human topical clinical data and robust safety assessments are essential to fully ascertain its utility and optimal integration into precision skincare.
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References
Sources