Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient operates by forming a physical barrier on the skin's surface, reflecting and scattering blue light (400-490 nm) and broader visible light wavelengths. This action mitigates the effects of light on melanocytes, thereby helping to prevent hyperpigmentation, particularly melasma. As part of the iron oxide family, it also offers mild protection against UV radiation and exhibits antioxidant properties.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 In a powder formulation containing a proprietary blend of iron oxides alongside 22.5% Zinc Oxide and 22.5% Titanium Dioxide, 98.5% of blue light (400-490 nm) was attenuated.
- 02 Iron oxides, including CI 77489, are utilized in tinted mineral sunscreens to reduce visible light transmission by 90% and offer protection against hyperpigmentation conditions such as melasma, particularly beneficial for individuals with darker skin tones.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Iron oxides exhibit robust stability across various conditions, including light and heat exposure, and are resistant to oxidation. However, certain iron oxides (yellow and black) can undergo a visible color shift when exposed to high temperatures (125-150°C) due to water of hydration loss. As CI 77489 can contribute to brown iron oxide mixtures, similar temperature sensitivity should be considered.
Conflicts
- strong oxidizing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
The Expert Panel for Cosmetic Ingredient Safety has deferred evaluation of iron oxides, relying on FDA's assessment. Generally regarded as non-toxic and non-allergenic, iron oxides are listed in Annex IV, Part I of the EC Cosmetics Regulation, permitting unrestricted use given purity compliance. The FDA classifies synthetic iron oxides as certified-exempt color additives, safe for use in cosmetics, including lip and eye products, provided they meet strict purity standards. Synthetic CI 77489 is preferred over natural forms due to lower impurity levels, such as heavy metals.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
CI 77489 is a valuable multifunctional ingredient, providing a rich orange hue while actively protecting the skin from blue light and visible light-induced hyperpigmentation, particularly beneficial in photoprotective formulations.
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References
Sources
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