Science
Mechanism of Action
CI 75135 acts through multiple pathways to enhance skin health. Primarily, it functions as a powerful antioxidant, diligently neutralizing free radicals to reduce oxidative stress and safeguard skin cells from damage and premature aging. As a Provitamin A, it converts into retinol and its esters within the skin's living layers, thereby promoting increased skin cell turnover, refining tone, and reducing roughness, similar to retinoid benefits. Beta-Carotene also offers photoprotective effects by combating UV-induced free radicals, moderately diminishing UV-induced erythema (though it is not a substitute for sunscreen), and protecting lipid structures and collagen from oxidation. Furthermore, it demonstrates anti-inflammatory properties, soothes irritation, contributes to skin hydration, and supports a radiant complexion by aiding cell turnover and potentially modulating melanin production.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Topical application within concentrations of 0.01% to 1% has been shown to deliver an increase in epidermal retinyl esters, acting as a precursor to active Vitamin A. This mechanism contributes to anti-aging benefits and improved skin cell turnover, with approximately 16% of the ingredient permeating the skin.
- 02 For its role as a cosmetic pigment, recommended usage rates are typically between 0.1% and 0.4%, concurrently providing antioxidant and skin conditioning advantages.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Beta-carotene exhibits faster degradation at pH 3 compared to the more stable range of pH 4-8. Its stability can be enhanced when incorporated into oil-in-water nanoemulsions. Instability may occur at high ionic strengths, specifically with NaCl concentrations exceeding 200mM at pH 7, and at elevated storage temperatures around 55°C within certain emulsifier systems. Oxidized derivatives are prone to auto-oxidation into potentially toxic compounds. Water solubility can be improved via cyclodextrins.
Conflicts
- High ionic strengths (e.g., NaCl >200mM at pH 7)
- Elevated storage temperatures (e.g., 55°C)
- Potential for irritation when combined with other strong topical products like retinoids, particularly on sensitive skin
- Strong oxidizing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
CI 75135 is considered safe for topical cosmetic use with a low hazard rating from EWG. It is FDA approved as a color additive for foods, drugs, and cosmetics, including the eye area, and is listed as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for direct food substances. In the EU, it is regulated as a colorant under Annex IV of the EC Cosmetics Regulation. Typical topical concentrations from 0.01% to 1% demonstrate minimal irritation or sensitization potential. It is important to note that concerns regarding increased lung cancer risk with high oral intake, particularly in heavy smokers, are not applicable to topical cosmetic applications.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
CI 75135 is a valuable, multifaceted ingredient offering significant antioxidant protection, provitamin A benefits for skin renewal, and gentle conditioning suitable for all skin types.
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