Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract operates through a tripartite mechanism: it scavenges free radicals via high-potency phenolic compounds, restores lipid integrity with linoleic and oleic acids, and preserves the dermal matrix by inhibiting collagenase and elastase enzymes which degrade structural proteins.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 Physical stability and compatibility in topical O/W emulsions demonstrated at a 5% concentration.
- 02 Significant inhibitory activity against collagenase (IC50: 42.87 mg/mL) and elastase (IC50: 244.2 mg/mL) enzymes for matrix protection.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to its exotic origin and 'superfood' status, it is frequently used at 'claim' levels (below 0.5%). For meaningful anti-aging and barrier benefits, concentrations closer to the 5% study benchmark are preferred.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Susceptible to oxidative stress due to high unsaturated fatty acid content; formulations should be stabilized with antioxidants like tocopherol and kept in opaque packaging.
Synergies
- Tocopherol
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Peptides
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- High pH environments (>8.0)
Safety
Safety Profile
Recognized as a food-grade ingredient with a long history of safe consumption; clinical testing at 5% shows excellent skin tolerance.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A high-performance botanical extract that provides robust antioxidant protection and helps maintain skin elasticity by preventing the enzymatic breakdown of collagen.
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References
Sources