Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract functions by inhibiting key dermal proteases, specifically elastase and collagenase, which prevents the breakdown of the skin's extracellular matrix. It further protects cellular integrity by scavenging reactive oxygen species (ROS) and downregulating pro-inflammatory signaling pathways, including NF-κB and MAPK.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence0.05%
Key findings
- 01 In vitro testing confirmed an IC80 for neutrophil elastase inhibition at just 0.022%, indicating high potency for anti-aging applications.
- 02 Research on HaCaT cells at 100 μg/mL demonstrated significant DPPH radical scavenging and the induction of NRF2 target genes for cellular defense.
- 03 Specific lignan glycosides isolated from the branches (chaenomiside F) inhibited nitric oxide production with an IC50 of 21.3 μM, validating its anti-inflammatory properties.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Due to its efficacy at very low concentrations (0.022%), this ingredient is frequently included at 'label-only' levels below 0.01% where its enzymatic inhibitory effects are biologically negligible.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
High polyphenol and tannin content requires protection from light and high temperatures. It is best incorporated during the cooling phase (<40°C) to prevent degradation.
Synergies
- Tocopherol (Vitamin E)
- Ferulic Acid
- Ascorbic Acid
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- Highly alkaline environments (pH > 8.0)
Safety
Safety Profile
Recognized as a common food source (Chinese Quince) and listed in the EU cosmetic glossary; it is generally regarded as non-toxic and hypoallergenic.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An excellent botanical for precision aging prevention, provided it is formulated at concentrations above 0.02% to ensure active elastase inhibition.
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References
Sources