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CETYL ACETYL RICINOLEATE.

Valuable CAS 111129-38-5 / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

A high-performance lipophilic emollient engineered for superior skin conditioning without the risk of pore clogging. This specialized fatty acid ester reinforces the cutaneous lipid barrier to deliver a smooth, refined texture and lasting moisture retention.

emollient skin conditioning barrier repair

Science

It functions by intercalating into the gaps between corneocytes within the stratum corneum, creating a cohesive and smooth surface. By reinforcing the lipid matrix, it significantly minimizes trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL); notably, the acetylation of its ricinoleic chain enhances hydrophobicity and ensures an exceptionally low comedogenic profile compared to standard ricinoleates.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.05–15%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical evaluation using the Klingman method demonstrated a comedogenicity factor of 0.0, confirming its status as a non-occlusive emollient even at 100% concentration.
  2. 02 Research indicates synergistic potential with Vitamin B3 (Niacinamide) to enhance skin brightness by modulating proteasomal chymotryptic protease activity.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

While effective in small amounts for surface smoothing, concentrations below 0.1% are unlikely to provide significant barrier reinforcement or measurable TEWL reduction.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Exhibits excellent thermal stability; however, as an ester, it may undergo hydrolysis in environments with extreme pH values (below 3.0 or above 9.0).

Synergies

  • Niacinamide (Vitamin B3)
  • Ceramides
  • Squalane

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Strong acids
  • Strong bases

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
15%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Recognized by the CIR as non-sensitizing and non-irritating across a wide range of cosmetic applications.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptionally safe and effective emollient that provides deep lipid replenishment without compromising pore clarity.


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