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Moumoujus

CETEARETH-20.

Valuable CAS 68439-49-6 / CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING, SURFACTANT - EMULSIFYING

A high-performance non-ionic surfactant and ethoxylated fatty alcohol that serves as a primary oil-in-water emulsifier. It is essential for creating stable, uniform textures while simultaneously acting as a strategic delivery vehicle for active molecules.

Summary

Emulsifying Surfactant Cleansing Penetration Enhancer Emollient

Science

Mechanism of Action

Ceteareth-20 reduces the interfacial tension between oil and water phases to maintain emulsion integrity. Beyond stabilization, it functions as a chemical penetration enhancer by temporarily fluidizing the lipid bilayer of the stratum corneum, allowing larger or more polar molecules to transit the skin barrier more efficiently.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1–11%
Optimal

3%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated superior penetration enhancement for flavonoids like quercetin and rutin compared to other oxyethylene chain lengths.
  2. 02 Human repeat-insult patch testing confirmed the ingredient is non-sensitizing and non-irritating at standard cosmetic concentrations.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

As a functional emulsifier rather than a 'hero' active, Ceteareth-20 is rarely used for marketing 'dusting.' It is typically included at functional levels required to stabilize the specific lipid load of a formula.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Both
Optimal pH 5 – 7.5
0 7 14

Stability

Exhibits excellent heat stability up to 70°C and maintains high electrolyte tolerance, making it ideal for complex hot-process emulsions.

Synergies

  • Flavonoids
  • Quercetin
  • Rutin

Conflicts

  • Strong acids
  • Strong bases
  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
11%
Sensitization risk Low

Must not be applied to damaged or broken skin due to the risk of PEG-related nephrotoxicity. Formulators must ensure purification to minimize 1,4-dioxane traces.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
No Oily
No Sensitive
Irritancy Moderate
Comedogenicity Moderate

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A robust and reliable emulsifier that enhances the delivery of botanical actives, though its moderate comedogenicity profile makes it better suited for dry to normal skin types.

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