Science
Mechanism of Action
Centella Asiatica Oil delivers its benefits through key pentacyclic triterpenoid saponins like asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid, collectively known as centelloids. These compounds stimulate the production of glycosaminoglycans, including hyaluronic acid, boosting skin hydration and moisture retention. They also promote collagen synthesis, improving skin elasticity, firmness, and aiding in anti-aging and wound healing. The ingredient exhibits potent anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial activities, safeguarding skin from environmental stressors. Additionally, it strengthens the skin barrier, reduces moisture loss, and assists in the reduction of acne scars. The oil's essential fraction contributes mild calming and soothing effects.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence0.5%
Key findings
- 01 Centella asiatica extract optimally improved wound healing in mice by accelerating wound closure and increasing collagen II and III expression, while reducing TGFβ1.
- 02 Cosmetic formulations with Centella asiatica extract demonstrated best efficacy in improving skin moisture (increased hydration, decreased transepidermal water loss) and anti-inflammatory properties in human volunteers over four weeks.
- 03 Centella asiatica extract cream significantly increased collagen levels (average 77.89%) and skin hydration (average 81.58%) in female white rats.
- 04 Asiaticoside, a key compound, increased antioxidant levels on rat skin.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While the CIR Expert Panel recommends a maximum use concentration of 0.5% for Centella asiatica extract in leave-on products, several studies indicate enhanced efficacy, particularly for skin moisture and anti-inflammatory benefits, at 5% in human subjects. A 10% concentration showed significant collagen and hydration increases in animal studies. The SCCS noted a 4.0% allergic reaction rate at 5% concentration in some human sensitization tests, suggesting that while higher concentrations may offer greater benefits, they also carry an increased risk of sensitization, indicating a potential for dusting in formulations aiming for maximal effect.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Centella Asiatica oil, often an infused oil containing the extract, is oil-soluble and generally exhibits optimal activity in formulations with a neutral pH, typically cited between 5.5-6.0.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel deems Centella asiatica-derived ingredients safe when formulated to be non-sensitizing, with a reported maximum use concentration of 0.5% for the extract in leave-on facial/neck products (non-spray). However, the SCCS observed that a 5% extract concentration, while safe for skin and ocular levels in general anti-aging tests, could induce allergic reactions in 4.0% of subjects in sensitization tests. Centella asiatica or its extract is not listed in the FDA's database of approved drug products.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
Centella Asiatica Oil is a highly valuable ingredient for its robust efficacy in hydration, collagen support, anti-inflammatory, and reparative actions, making it exceptionally versatile for all skin types and a wide range of cosmetic applications within recommended concentrations.
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