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CENTELLA ASIATICA LEAF.

Essential / SKIN CONDITIONING

Centella Asiatica Leaf extract, commonly known as Cica, is a highly regarded botanical revered for its multi-dimensional benefits in precision skincare. This extract, rich in key bioactive triterpenes, is instrumental in calming inflammation, accelerating skin repair processes, and fortifying the skin's inherent protective barrier, thereby fostering enhanced resilience and overall dermal health.

Wound healing Anti-inflammatory Antioxidant Moisturizing Stimulates hyaluronic acid synthesis Promotes collagen synthesis Improves skin elasticity and firmness Enhances skin barrier function Antibacterial (against Propionibacterium) Reduces pore size and density Reduces surface roughness Reduces wrinkle depth May help with cellulite or striae

Science

Centella Asiatica Leaf extract exerts its therapeutic effects through a sophisticated multi-pathway mechanism. Its primary active compounds—asiaticoside, madecassoside, asiatic acid, and madecassic acid—stimulate fibroblast proliferation and significantly upregulate the synthesis of vital dermal components such as collagen and fibronectin, which are crucial for maintaining skin elasticity and firmness. Concurrently, it enhances the production of glycosaminoglycans and hyaluronic acid, leading to profound skin moisturization. The extract demonstrates potent anti-inflammatory action by modulating proinflammatory mediators, effectively reducing redness and irritation. Additionally, it exhibits antibacterial properties against Propionibacterium, making it relevant for acne management. Its capacity to accelerate tissue regeneration, improve barrier integrity, and diminish transepidermal water loss underscores its efficacy in wound healing and enhancing the tensile strength of regenerating skin, complemented by its robust antioxidant activity.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 2.5–5%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical studies at 2.5% and 5% extract demonstrated a significant increase in stratum corneum hydration, with 5% yielding the most effective results.
  2. 02 A 4% extract, when combined with Vitamin C, was shown to enhance collagen and elastin production, contributing to anti-aging benefits.
  3. 03 Formulations incorporating CICA-derived extracellular vesicles achieved a mean pore area reduction of 17.9%, pore density reduction of 26.9%, surface roughness improvement by 9.0%, and wrinkle depth reduction between 7.8% and 18.8%. These formulations also boosted hydration by 7.9% and dermal density by 12.7%.
  4. 04 0.2% Asiaticoside, a principal active compound of Centella Asiatica, was found to increase antioxidant levels.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
2.5%

Clinical studies indicate efficacy for Centella Asiatica Leaf extract at concentrations ranging from 2.5% to 5% for benefits such as hydration and collagen stimulation. However, the CIR Expert Panel noted its use typically up to 0.5% in leave-on facial products. Products claiming significant benefits while incorporating concentrations below 2.5% may be underdosing, and formulations below 0.5% deviate from documented typical use.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

Formulations containing Centella Asiatica extract, particularly its active compounds like madecassoside and asiaticoside, have demonstrated instability at 25 °C and 40 °C, indicating that optimal stability is achieved at colder temperatures, such as 4 °C, within certain polymeric dispersions.

Synergies

  • Vitamin C

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
0.5%
Sensitization risk Low

While generally regarded as safe for sensitive skin and demonstrating a non-irritating profile (irritation index: 0.00 in a 24-hour patch test), isolated cases of skin or eye irritation have been reported. An older guinea pig study classified a 30% Centella Asiatica extract as a 'weak sensitizer'; however, typical cosmetic concentrations are significantly lower, often up to 0.5% in leave-on facial products as per CIR.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Essential

Centella Asiatica Leaf is an essential ingredient offering comprehensive skin benefits, including significant hydration, potent anti-inflammatory action, enhanced collagen synthesis, and improved skin barrier function, rendering it highly suitable for nearly all skin types.


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