Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient works through a synergistic action. Centella Asiatica, rich in compounds like madecassoside, promotes fibroblast proliferation, increasing collagen and intracellular fibronectin content, thereby improving skin tensile strength and aiding in wound recovery. It also helps to mitigate inflammation, particularly in scar formation, and addresses signs of photoaging. Chamomilla Recutita Flower/Leaf Extract contributes significant soothing and anti-inflammatory benefits via bioactive constituents such as bisabolol, chamazulene, and flavonoids, effectively calming redness and reducing irritation. Additionally, it offers antioxidant defense against environmental stressors and bolsters skin hydration by reinforcing the skin barrier, facilitating minor wound healing.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidenceN/A
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated an increase in collagen and cell layer fibronectin percentages in cultures of human skin fibroblasts.
- 02 Influenced gene expression critical for cell proliferation, cell cycle progression, and extracellular matrix synthesis in human dermal fibroblasts.
- 03 Reported as the maximum concentration in leave-on facial products, functioning as a potent anti-photoaging agent.
- 04 Utilized in an eye lotion, representing a high reported use for this component.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
This ingredient is not commonly 'dusted' given its components demonstrate efficacy at relatively low concentrations for various benefits. For instance, Centella Asiatica's cellular regeneration benefits are observed in vitro at concentrations as low as 25 µg/mL (0.0025%). Chamomilla Recutita is also effective at very low percentages for soothing. However, if targeting the full spectrum of Centella's anti-photoaging or significant dermal restructuring effects, formulations for the Centella component below approximately 0.05% might be considered underdosed for these specific high-level claims.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The optimal pH range for this combined extract is between 4.5 and 6.0, accommodating the stability requirements of Centella Asiatica (4.5-6.5) and Chamomilla Recutita (3.0-6.0). Chamomilla Recutita extract is primarily water-soluble, but oil-soluble preparations are also possible using carrier oils.
Safety
Safety Profile
The CIR Expert Panel generally deems Centella Asiatica extract and other Chamomilla Recutita-derived ingredients safe in cosmetics when formulated to be non-sensitizing. However, specific assessment indicated insufficient data for 'Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower/Leaf Extract' to determine safety under intended conditions of use, awaiting additional chemical composition data. Centella Asiatica extract was classified as a weak sensitizer in a study at 30%, and positive patch tests at 1% have been reported, indicating a moderate sensitization risk at higher concentrations. Chamomilla recutita flowers are listed as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for food use by the FDA. The maximum concentration of 0.5% refers to Centella Asiatica Extract in leave-on products, while 0.4% is noted for Chamomilla Recutita Flower Extract in eye lotion.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
This multi-functional botanical blend is a valuable asset, offering comprehensive benefits from enhancing collagen synthesis and promoting skin regeneration to providing substantial soothing and anti-inflammatory relief across diverse skin concerns.
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