Science
Mechanism of Action
Operates through a dual-inhibitory pathway: it significantly suppresses hyaluronidase and elastase, the enzymes responsible for breaking down the skin's moisture-retaining and elastic fibers. Its rich profile of rutin and myricetin provides targeted antioxidant scavenging while suppressing pro-inflammatory cytokines like IL-1α to maintain a calm, resilient dermal environment.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence1%
Key findings
- 01 In vitro analysis confirms elastase inhibition of up to 82.7% at concentrations of 0.4 mg/mL, highlighting significant anti-aging potential.
- 02 An in vivo 24-hour patch test on 20 human subjects at a 5.0% concentration resulted in an irritation index of 0.50, classifying it as a non-irritating topical agent.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Botanical extracts like Chestnut Flower are frequently included in formulas at symbolic concentrations (<0.01%) for marketing claims. To achieve measurable enzyme inhibition for anti-aging benefits, a concentration of at least 0.1% to 1.0% is recommended.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable in acidic and glyceric solutions; however, antioxidant efficacy drops significantly at pH levels above 7.0. The extract is thermo-sensitive and should not be processed at temperatures exceeding 40°C.
Synergies
- Hyaluronic Acid (protects HA from degradation)
- Ascorbic Acid (complementary antioxidant network)
- Glycerin
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizers
- Iron salts (can react with tannins to form dark-colored complexes)
Safety
Safety Profile
While not yet specifically reviewed by the CIR, it is regulated as a safe skin-conditioning agent under European Cosmetic Regulation 1223/2009 and listed by the FDA (UNII: YHZ719F7M3).
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A high-performance botanical that offers scientifically-backed protection for the skin's structural matrix when formulated within the correct pH and temperature parameters.
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