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Moumoujus

CASTANEA CRENATA SHELL EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS - / SKIN CONDITIONING

Derived from the outer husks of the Japanese Chestnut, this botanical extract serves as a multi-functional bioactive agent for pore refinement and structural skin support. It leverages a high concentration of natural tannins and polyphenols to balance oil production while defending against environmental oxidative stress.

Summary

Astringent Antioxidant Sebum Regulator Skin Brightener

Science

Mechanism of Action

This extract functions through a dual-action pathway: its rich tannin content provides an immediate astringent effect by constricting pores and regulating sebum secretion, while its polyphenolic compounds, specifically ellagic acid, inhibit the tyrosinase and elastase enzymes. This effectively slows the degradation of elastin fibers and disrupts the pathway of melanin synthesis, resulting in firmer, brighter skin.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–5%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Inhibition of elastase and tyrosinase demonstrated at concentrations as low as 0.1%, contributing to visible firming and brightening.
  2. 02 In vivo testing showed a 31.76% improvement in skin hydration and firmness over a 56-day period when using shell-derived extracts.
  3. 03 High-concentration formulations (up to 37%) have been utilized in commercial emulsions specifically for sebum regulation without inducing irritation.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

While beneficial for antioxidant support at low levels, therapeutic pore-tightening and anti-elastase effects typically require concentrations between 2% and 5%. Formulae listing this ingredient at the very end of the INCI list may be 'dusting' for label appeal without achieving functional sebum control.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4 – 6
0 7 14

Stability

The extract is robust across a wide pH spectrum (2–11) but is highly susceptible to photo-oxidation; finished products must be housed in UV-protected or opaque packaging.

Synergies

  • Salicylic Acid (BHA)
  • Niacinamide
  • Hyaluronic Acid

Conflicts

  • Iron ions
  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Recognized as safe for topical use with an EWG score of 1. While not yet reviewed by the CIR, its long-standing use in food (GRAS status) and skincare indicates high biocompatibility.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An exceptional botanical for oily and aging skin types that bridges the gap between sebum regulation and structural integrity.

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References

Sources