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CASTANEA CRENATA PELLICLE EXTRACT.

Valuable / ANTIOXIDANT, ASTRINGENT, DEODORANT

Derived from the inner shell of the Japanese chestnut, this bioactive botanical serves as a multifunctional precision ingredient for pore refinement and structural support. It bridges the gap between traditional astringency and modern anti-aging by targeting both surface texture and the deeper dermal matrix.

antioxidant astringent skin conditioning sebum regulator anti-aging

Science

The extract utilizes a high concentration of tannins to provide natural astringent properties that constrict pores and modulate sebum production. At a cellular level, its polyphenolic profile inhibits elastase and tyrosinase enzymes to prevent collagen degradation and melanin overproduction, while simultaneously upregulating cell-adhesion molecules like fibronectin to reinforce skin integrity.


Research

Medium confidence
Effective range 0.1–5%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 Twice-daily topical application over 56 days demonstrated a 31.76% increase in skin firmness in 50% of test subjects.
  2. 02 In vitro analysis of skin fibroblasts showed significantly enhanced expression of fibronectin and vitronectin, suggesting potent anti-wrinkle mechanisms.
  3. 03 Documented inhibition of tyrosinase and elastase enzymes supports its role in brightening and maintaining elastic fiber density.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.1%
Red flag below
0.05%

While often listed for its 'botanical appeal,' concentrations below 0.1% fail to provide the tannin levels necessary for meaningful pore constriction or the antioxidant density required for enzyme inhibition.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4.5 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

Highly heat-sensitive; must be incorporated during the cooling phase below 45°C. High tannin content may lead to oxidative color shifts in the final formula if not properly stabilized.

Synergies

  • Niacinamide (enhanced pore regulation)
  • Ascorbic Acid (synergistic antioxidant protection)
  • Peptides (structural reinforcement)

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Highly alkaline environments (pH > 7.0)
  • High-heat processing

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Generally recognized as safe (GRAS), though individuals with known nut allergies should perform a patch test due to potential cross-reactivity with chestnut proteins.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An excellent botanical choice for oily and aging skin types seeking combined pore refinement and dermal firming at concentrations above 0.1%.


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