Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions as a natural lipase inhibitor, which assists in regulating lipid metabolism at the skin surface. Its polyphenol content acts as a copper-chelating agent to suppress tyrosinase activity, effectively reducing hyperpigmentation, while its antioxidant profile shields dermal fibroblasts from UVB-induced senescence by neutralizing reactive oxygen species.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence4%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated a 97.53% inhibition of elastase, highlighting its potential to maintain structural skin integrity and prevent sagging.
- 02 Provided a 52.1% reduction in oxidative-stress induced cell death, confirming significant cytoprotective properties.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While often used at trace amounts for 'label claims' due to its botanical appeal, concentrations below 2% are unlikely to provide the lipase inhibition or elastase protection seen in clinical data.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The active extracts are water-soluble, though the raw powder is insoluble. Formulators should use encapsulated or spray-dried versions to protect sensitive polyphenols from oxidation.
Synergies
- Ascorbic Acid
- Niacinamide
- Maltodextrin
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- High concentrations of metal ions
Safety
Safety Profile
Topical application is considered non-irritating and non-sensitizing based on current toxicological assessments in 2-6% concentrations.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A high-performance botanical that offers rare lipase-inhibiting benefits for oil control alongside robust anti-aging protection.
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References
Sources