Science
Mechanism of Action
It functions through a multi-pathway approach: primarily by shielding SIRT1 'longevity' proteins to maintain cellular repair cycles. It simultaneously inhibits matrix-degrading enzymes—specifically collagenase and elastase—to prevent the breakdown of the skin's structural scaffolding while suppressing inflammatory mediators like NO and PGE2.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence0.02%
Key findings
- 01 In vitro testing demonstrated an 89% inhibition of collagenase and 58% inhibition of elastase at a 0.02% concentration, suggesting profound anti-wrinkle potential.
- 02 At 25 µg/mL, the extract proved to be a highly effective superoxide radical scavenger, mitigating oxidative stress at the cellular level.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because it shows biological activity in vitro at very low concentrations (0.02%), brands may include it at 'trace' amounts (below 0.005%) just for marketing claims without providing the necessary enzyme-inhibiting benefits.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Most stable in serum and emulsion formats when delivered in a propanediol or glycerin carrier. Biological activity is enhanced in ethanol-based extractions.
Synergies
- Resveratrol
- Niacinamide
- Peptides
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizers
- High pH environments (>8.0)
Safety
Safety Profile
Though not yet reviewed by the CIR, it is listed in the EU CosIng database without restrictions and has a long history of use in traditional medicine for calming irritations.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A sophisticated botanical active that bridges traditional medicine and epigenetic skincare by protecting skin longevity proteins and structural integrity.
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References
Sources