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Moumoujus

CARYOPTERIS INCANA FLOWER/LEAF/STEM EXTRACT.

Valuable CAS - / ANTIOXIDANT, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

A multifunctional botanical active derived from the Bluebeard plant, traditionally utilized in East Asian medicine for its profound calming properties. In precision skincare, it serves as a high-performance stabilizer that simultaneously targets oxidative stress, enzymatic collagen degradation, and melanogenesis.

Summary

Antioxidant Skin conditioning Soothing Anti-inflammatory Tyrosinase inhibitor

Science

Mechanism of Action

The extract operates via four primary pathways: 1) Antioxidant defense through phenylpropanoid glycosides (incanosides) which neutralize reactive oxygen species; 2) Anti-inflammatory action by suppressing iNOS/COX-2 expression and hyaluronidase activity; 3) Matrix preservation by downregulating collagenase and elastase enzymes; and 4) Brightening through the competitive inhibition of tyrosinase to modulate melanin synthesis.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.05–3%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 Ethanolic extracts at 200 μg/mL demonstrated 77.39% collagenase inhibition and 59.26% tyrosinase inhibition.
  2. 02 Ex vivo testing confirmed significant reductions in inflammatory markers within the 0.05% to 2.0% concentration range.
  3. 03 In vitro data indicates potent hyaluronidase inhibition, supporting its role as a soothing agent for compromised skin barriers.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.1%

Botanical extracts are frequently used at 'claim levels' (below 0.1%) to satisfy marketing narratives. However, clinical data suggests that while some anti-inflammatory benefits appear at 0.05%, reaching therapeutic thresholds for anti-aging and brightening typically requires a concentration between 1.5% and 3.0%.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Highly stable in aqueous solutions at slightly acidic to neutral pH. It is thermo-sensitive; high processing temperatures must be avoided to prevent the degradation of heat-labile phenolic glycosides.

Synergies

  • Ascorbic Acid (potentiated brightening)
  • Hyaluronic Acid (complementary hydration retention)
  • Niacinamide (enhanced barrier repair)

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • High alkaline environments (>pH 8.0)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
3%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Historically used in traditional medicine for eczema and pruritus, indicating a high level of biocompatibility for sensitive skin.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An exceptional multi-tasking botanical that provides scientifically-backed benefits for inflammation and aging when formulated at therapeutic concentrations.

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