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Moumoujus

CARYOPHYLLENE ACETATE.

Valuable CAS 32214-91-8 / PERFUMING

A specialized sesquiterpene ester that functions as a high-performance penetration enhancer and skin-conditioning agent. It is valued in precision skincare for its dual ability to improve the bioavailability of other actives while interacting with the skin's endocannabinoid system to provide soothing benefits.

Summary

Penetration enhancer Selective CB2 agonist Skin conditioning Fragrance masking

Science

Mechanism of Action

Operates through a dual-action pathway: first, it modulates the skin's endocannabinoid system as a selective agonist of the Cannabinoid Receptor Type 2 (CB2), reducing the production of pro-inflammatory cytokines like NF-κB and IL-1β. Second, it temporarily reorganizes the lipid structure within the stratum corneum, creating pathways that facilitate the transdermal delivery of both small and large molecular polar substances.

Research

Clinical Evidence

Medium confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

4%

Key findings

  1. 01 Patented research (CN113304272A) identifies a 3.0%-5.0% concentration as the optimal range for maximizing the transdermal absorption of co-formulated active ingredients.
  2. 02 A RIFM safety assessment confirmed that a 4.0% solution is non-irritating and non-sensitizing on human subjects.
  3. 03 Preclinical data on related sesquiterpene structures at 1.0% suggests significant potential for accelerating dermal repair and inflammatory modulation via CB2 pathways.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

In many commercial formulas, Caryophyllene Acetate is included at trace levels (under 0.1%) primarily for masking scents or fragrance. To achieve functional benefits as a penetration enhancer or soothing agent, concentrations should ideally exceed 1.0%.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Maintains stability in neutral to slightly acidic environments; however, it is susceptible to hydrolysis at pH levels below 3.0 or above 8.0. It requires protection from high heat and oxidative stress to prevent degradation into caryophyllene and acetic acid.

Synergies

  • Macromolecular actives (increased delivery)
  • Polar small molecules
  • Vitamin E (for oxidative stability)

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Highly acidic formulas (pH <3)
  • Highly alkaline environments (pH >8)

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
8%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Recognized as GRAS (Generally Recognized As Safe) by the FDA. IFRA standards support safe use in leave-on products up to an 8% concentration limit.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An excellent multi-tasking ingredient for advanced formulations, serving as a safe and effective 'delivery vehicle' that simultaneously calms the skin barrier.

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