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CARTHAMUS TINCTORIUS FLOWER/VITIS VINIFERA FRUIT/(CAMELIA SINENSIS/DIOSPYROS KAKI/ZANTHOXYLUM SCHINIFOLIUM) LEAF/POLYGONUM CUSPIDATUM ROOT/CASTANEA CRENATA SHELL/COFFEA ARABICA SEED WATER.

Valuable / ANTI-SEBUM, ANTIMICROBIAL, ANTIOXIDANT, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN PROTECTING

A sophisticated botanical complex engineered from eight polyphenol-rich extracts to target pore structure and sebum equilibrium. This aqueous distillate combines traditional Asian herbology with precision molecular extraction to refine skin texture and provide potent antioxidant defense.

Astringent Sebum Regulator Antioxidant Skin Conditioning

Science

The complex functions through high-density natural tannins that cross-link with epidermal surface proteins, resulting in a temporary micro-tightening effect on pore walls. It simultaneously downregulates oil production by inhibiting the enzyme 5-alpha reductase, while Resveratrol from Polygonum Cuspidatum neutralizes oxidative stress.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–5%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 In vivo testing on 20 subjects at 2% concentration showed a 25.3% reduction in visible pore diameter and a 32.1% decrease in oil secretion over 28 days.
  2. 02 In vitro studies confirm significant 5-alpha reductase inhibition, indicating sustained sebum regulation and anti-inflammatory properties.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Because of its complex INCI name, brands often include this at trace levels for marketing claims; however, clinical data proves that a minimum of 1-2% is required to achieve measurable pore reduction and oil control.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4 – 6.5
0 7 14

Stability

Aqueous stability is high within slightly acidic ranges. It is imperative to keep formulation temperatures below 60°C to preserve the integrity of the heat-sensitive polyphenols.

Synergies

  • Niacinamide (complementary sebum regulation)
  • Hyaluronic acid (hydration balance)
  • Salicylic Acid (enhanced pore clearing)

Conflicts

  • Iron salts (causes dark chelation discoloration)
  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Alkaline environments (pH > 8.0)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
100%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While the complex is a blended entity, its primary botanical components like Camellia Sinensis and Safflower are extensively reviewed and documented as safe in cosmetic applications.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptionally effective multifunctional complex for oily and large-pored skin types, backed by precise clinical metrics.


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References