Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract operates through a dual-action pathway: it inhibits the 5α-reductase enzyme to significantly reduce excess sebum synthesis and upregulates the expression of filaggrin and cornified envelope proteins to mend the skin barrier. Additionally, its high concentration of ellagitannins provides robust antioxidant protection and suppresses pro-inflammatory cytokines such as IL-6 and TNF-α.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence1.5%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated dose-dependent inhibition of 5α-reductase and enhancement of skin barrier markers (filaggrin).
- 02 Observed suppression of atopic inflammatory mediators (MDC/CCL22) and antimicrobial activity in cosmetic preparations.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because it is a rare botanical extract, it is frequently included at 'label-claim' levels (below 0.05%) to market anti-acne benefits without providing the physiological sebum-control or barrier-repair effects seen in higher concentrations.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable in aqueous solutions between pH 5.5 and 6.5. Due to its tannin content, the extract is sensitive to photo-oxidation and thermal stress, which may result in minor darkening of the formula over time.
Synergies
- Niacinamide
- Zinc PCA
- Ceramides
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- High concentrations of iron or copper ions
Safety
Safety Profile
While not yet formally reviewed by the CIR, it is an established INCI ingredient with a history of safe use in low-irritancy botanical formulations.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An excellent precision ingredient for oily and sensitive skin types, offering rare dual-action benefits for both acne management and barrier fortification.
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