Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract utilizes unique polyphenols like Kobochromone A to inhibit the DHRS11 enzyme, effectively blocking the intracellular conversion of inactive hormones into potent androgens that stimulate oil glands. Simultaneously, its stilbenoid profile (such as ε-viniferin) activates SIRT1 longevity genes and neutralizes oxidative stress caused by UV exposure and particulate matter (PM 2.5).
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence2.5%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated DHRS11 inhibition and androgen receptor suppression at concentrations as low as 0.35 μM (Steroids Journal, 2022/2025).
- 02 Observed significant protection against UV-B induced cellular damage and fine dust irritation at 100 μg/mL (NIBR, 2024).
- 03 Improvement in skin elasticity and tone through SIRT1 activation was validated for hydroxystilbene-rich Carex extracts (Patent DE202018105288U1).
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because it is a specialized K-Beauty ingredient with potent efficacy at micro-molar levels, many brands include it at trace amounts for marketing. For biological activity regarding sebum control and SIRT1 activation, a concentration above 0.1% is required.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The active stilbenoids are sensitive to photo-degradation and alkaline environments (pH > 7.0). Formulas should be packaged in UV-protective, opaque containers.
Synergies
- Niacinamide
- Retinoids
- Ascorbic Acid
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- High-pH alkaline cleansers
- Ferric salts
Safety
Safety Profile
Maintains an EWG-equivalent safety score of 1. It is non-hormonal in systemic terms, acting only on local skin enzymes, making it a safer alternative to pharmaceutical anti-androgens.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptional multi-functional ingredient that offers a rare biological pathway for oil control while providing robust protection against modern environmental stressors.
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References
Sources