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Moumoujus

CARBOXYMETHYL LEVAN.

Valuable / HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING

A sophisticated, bio-engineered polysaccharide that functions as a high-efficiency humectant and molecular delivery vehicle. It forms a protective, breathable biofilm on the skin surface to prevent dehydration while simultaneously shielding the dermis from environmental oxidative stress.

Summary

Humectant Film Former Nanocarrier Antioxidant Soothing Agent Skin Conditioning

Science

Mechanism of Action

This functionalized carbohydrate operates via a dual-action pathway: it creates an occlusive bio-polymeric film that significantly reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and serves as a nanocarrier for unstable actives like growth factors (hEGF). At the cellular level, it promotes the proliferation of fibroblasts and keratinocytes while providing targeted anti-inflammatory and antioxidant defense by neutralizing free radicals.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1–10%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Comparative double-blind trials indicate superior wrinkle reduction and hydration metrics when measured against Hyaluronic Acid over a 30-day period.
  2. 02 At a 1% concentration, the ingredient demonstrates 58% antioxidant activity, effectively mitigating premature aging factors.
  3. 03 Dermatological testing at 10% concentration confirms the material is non-irritating and highly biocompatible for topical applications.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

Carboxymethyl Levan is a premium technical ingredient. While antioxidant benefits appear at 1%, its critical role as a nanocarrier and structural film-former requires concentrations above 0.5% to ensure measurable delivery of co-actives.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5.5 – 11
0 7 14

Stability

Maintains excellent stability in neutral to alkaline environments; however, it is prone to acid-catalyzed hydrolysis at pH levels below 5.5, which causes the polymer to degrade into fructose.

Synergies

  • Human Epidermal Growth Factor (hEGF)
  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Peptides
  • Glycerin

Conflicts

  • Low-pH L-Ascorbic Acid
  • Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs)
  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Classified under Microbial Polysaccharide Gums; exhibits zero cytotoxicity or hemolytic activity, making it ideal for sensitive and post-procedure skin.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A high-performance polysaccharide that outperforms traditional Hyaluronic Acid in hydration longevity and provides a critical stabilization matrix for advanced bio-actives.

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