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Moumoujus

CARBOXYMETHYL CAPROOYL CHITOSAN.

Valuable / ABSORBENT, FILM FORMING, HUMECTANT, SOLVENT, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

A sophisticated, bio-derived polyampholyte that functions as a multifunctional skin shield, offering high-performance hydration and broad-spectrum microbial defense. It is particularly notable for its ability to form a breathable nano-network on the skin's surface, ensuring the sustained release of active ingredients while maintaining an optimal moisture balance.

Summary

antimicrobial antioxidant humectant film forming sustained release carrier

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient operates through a quaternary mechanism: it utilizes its polycationic nature to disrupt microbial cell membranes; it provides antioxidant protection by donating hydrogen to neutralize free radicals; it creates a structured hydrogel film via carboxymethyl groups for superior humectancy; and it mitigates inflammatory stress by modulating the JNK signaling pathway and reducing PGE2 levels.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 0.2–4%
Optimal

0.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated a 66% to 89% DPPH radical scavenging rate at concentrations between 1% and 4%.
  2. 02 Achieved significant antimicrobial inhibition (MIC) at 0.2% against various skin pathogens.
  3. 03 Established a functional nano-network for moisture retention at concentrations exceeding 0.5%.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

While it shows antimicrobial effects at 0.2%, its superior structural 'nano-network' benefits for hydration and sustained release require at least 0.5%. Formulas listing this ingredient near the bottom of the INCI list (below 0.1%) are likely using it only for marketing claims rather than functional efficacy.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 4 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

Highly hydrophilic (HLB ~36.5) and thermo-reversible; it remains stable in aqueous solutions at neutral pH. Stability is highest when formulated away from its isoelectric point of 4.6.

Synergies

  • Active ingredients requiring sustained release
  • Other humectants like Hyaluronic Acid
  • Soothing botanical extracts

Conflicts

  • Strongly anionic surfactants
  • High electrolyte concentrations

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
0.5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

While not yet formally reviewed by the CIR, its parent molecule Chitosan is FDA GRAS. In vitro data suggests no cytotoxicity to fibroblasts at concentrations up to 0.5%.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

A high-performance biotech ingredient that bridges the gap between antimicrobial protection and deep cellular hydration.

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