Science
Mechanism of Action
This extract functions through a multi-pathway signaling approach; it activates ERK1/2, JNK, p38 MAPK, and AKT phosphorylation to accelerate keratinocyte migration and wound repair. Simultaneously, it upregulates HA synthase-2 for endogenous hyaluronic acid production and stimulates Collagen I and IV synthesis, while suppressing the matrix-degrading enzymes MMP-2 and MMP-9 to maintain structural integrity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence0.08%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated >50% inhibition of elastase and >20% inhibition of tyrosinase at 0.8 mg/mL phenolic concentrations.
- 02 Achieved 80-90% ACE inhibitory activity at concentrations between 0.2-1.0 mg/mL, suggesting significant vascular and skin health benefits.
- 03 In vitro studies at 200 μg/mL confirmed enhanced proliferation of HaCaT cells, facilitating tissue regeneration and wrinkle reduction.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because it is a botanical extract, it is frequently included at trace levels (under 0.01%) for 'label claims.' However, clinical data suggests a minimum threshold of 0.02% (200 μg/mL) is necessary to trigger the cellular migration required for visible anti-aging results.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable due to inherent flavonoid content; optimal stability is observed in 70% ethanol extracts or hexane-derived absolutes. Exhibits compatibility with a wide range of cosmetic bases.
Synergies
- Ascorbic Acid
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Peptides
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
Listed in EU CosIng (Entry 5391). Non-cytotoxic in cellular models up to 2,500 μg/mL, indicating a wide safety margin for topical application.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A high-performance botanical active that offers scientifically-backed benefits for collagen synthesis and melanin regulation when used at therapeutic concentrations.
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References
Sources