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Caprylyl Eicosenoate.

Valuable / SKIN CONDITIONING

A sophisticated lipid ester that serves as a high-performance emollient, engineered to provide a breathable, non-greasy protective barrier. It is particularly valued in precision formulations for its ability to enhance skin texture and provide smooth pigment distribution without clogging pores.

Emollient Skin-conditioning agent Occlusive Pigment dispersant

Science

This ingredient functions by reinforcing the stratum corneum's natural barrier. It integrates seamlessly with the skin's surface lipids to create a microscopic occlusive film that significantly reduces trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) while facilitating high spreadability and a lubricated skin feel.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 2–10%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical evaluation at a 2.0% concentration demonstrated significant improvements in skin moisturization and texture refinement when utilized in emollient systems.
  2. 02 Safety testing on 21 human subjects at 20.0% concentration confirmed 'very good' skin compatibility with zero reported irritation or sensitization.
  3. 03 Specific comedogenicity trials using rabbit ear models showed the ingredient to be non-clogging even at 100% undiluted concentrations.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Because this is a functional emollient rather than a high-cost bio-active, it is rarely 'dusted' for marketing. However, concentrations below 1.0% may be insufficient to provide the characteristic barrier-reinforcing benefits.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 5 – 9
0 7 14

Stability

Highly resistant to oxidation and stable across various temperatures. It is an alkyl ester, meaning it remains stable unless exposed to extreme pH environments (below 4.0 or above 10.0), which may trigger hydrolysis.

Synergies

  • Inorganic pigments
  • Fatty acids
  • Ceramides
  • Tocopherol

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Extreme acidic solutions (pH < 4.0)
  • Strongly alkaline bases

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Generally recognized as safe and non-irritating; standard cosmetic usage typically peaks at 10% for optimal sensorial performance.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

A reliable and versatile emollient that provides excellent barrier protection and silkiness for all skin types without the risk of comedogenicity.


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