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Moumoujus

CAPRYLOYL HYDROLYZED KERATIN.

Valuable CAS 161133-65-9 / ANTISTATIC, CLEANSING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

A high-performance, lipophilized keratin peptide engineered to fortify the structural integrity of the skin's barrier and the keratin matrix of nails. By grafting a capryloyl fatty acid chain onto hydrolyzed keratin, this ingredient achieves superior affinity for lipids, allowing it to integrate seamlessly into damaged tissue for deep-reaching repair.

Summary

Skin conditioning Hair conditioning Barrier repair Antistatic

Science

Mechanism of Action

This ingredient functions as a structural biomimetic agent. The capryloyl modification enhances its lipophilicity, enabling the keratin peptides to anchor within the lipid bilayer of the stratum corneum and the dense protein layers of nails and hair. Once integrated, it forms a breathable, protective film that significantly reduces trans-epidermal water loss (TEWL) and restores the natural protein-lipid equilibrium necessary for mechanical resilience.

Research

Clinical Evidence

High confidence
Effective range 1–2%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 Clinical evaluations at a 2% concentration demonstrated a measurable increase in nail plate thickness and a significant reduction in surface roughness and brittleness within 14 to 28 days.
  2. 02 Comparative studies at 1% show higher substantivity and breakage resistance in keratinous fibers compared to standard hydrolyzed keratin due to improved lipid affinity.

Transparency

Dusting Analysis

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

While often listed in 'strengthening' marketing claims, concentrations below 1% are typically insufficient to provide the mechanical reinforcement observed in clinical trials. Efficacy for barrier repair and nail thickening is highly dose-dependent.

The Formula

Formulation

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4.5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Thermolabile; must be incorporated during the cooling phase below 40°C. It exhibits peak stability in anhydrous environments such as oils, balms, and water-free serums.

Synergies

  • Ceramides
  • Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides
  • Vitamin E

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • High-concentration anionic surfactants
  • pH levels below 3.5 or above 8.5

Safety

Safety Profile

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Classified by the CIR as safe and non-toxic. Its biodegradable nature and biocompatibility make it an excellent choice for sensitive skin profiles.

Your Skin

Skin Compatibility

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Verdict

Valuable

An expertly modified protein that offers superior structural reinforcement for the skin and nail barrier when formulated at 1-2%.

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