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CAPRYLOYL GLYCERIN/SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER.

Valuable CAS 1190099-88-7 / FILM FORMING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN PROTECTING

A 100% plant-derived, biodegradable polyester that serves as a high-performance alternative to traditional silicones. It provides the luxurious slip and shine of dimethicone while forming a breathable barrier to lock in moisture and protect the skin.

Emollient Film Former Texture Enhancer SPF Booster

Science

This multi-dimensional polymer acts as a sophisticated film-former and emollient. By creating a cohesive yet breathable occlusive layer, it significantly reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and improves the dispersion of pigments and UV filters on the skin surface.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.5–10%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated an 8-hour improvement in hydration and barrier function in lip care applications at concentrations up to 10%.
  2. 02 Achieved a >2-fold increase in in-vitro SPF values when utilized as a booster in sunscreen formulations.
  3. 03 Shown to provide sensory equivalence to 350 cSt Dimethicone in slip and non-greasy finish at 1.0-5.0% levels.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.5%
Red flag below
0.1%

Because it is often used as a sensory enhancer or 'natural silicone' substitute, it is rarely 'dusted' at sub-functional levels; however, concentrations below 0.5% may fail to provide the documented barrier and SPF-boosting benefits.


The Formula

Solubility
Oil
Optimal pH 4 – 8
0 7 14

Stability

Highly resistant to lipid oxidation and heat-stable; however, to prevent ester hydrolysis, it is best maintained within a moderate pH range. It is suitable for cold-process manufacturing.

Synergies

  • Mineral UV filters (Zinc Oxide, Titanium Dioxide)
  • Organic UV filters
  • Pigments
  • Plant oils

Conflicts

  • Extreme pH environments (>8.0)
  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
10%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Verified as non-irritating and non-sensitizing by the CIR Expert Panel (2016). Its biodegradable nature makes it an eco-conscious choice for clean beauty formulations.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptional, eco-friendly multifunctional polymer that bridges the gap between natural ingredients and high-tech silicone performance.


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References