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Capryloyl Collagen Amino Acids.

Valuable CAS 161133-67-1 / ANTISTATIC, CLEANSING, HAIR CONDITIONING, SURFACTANT - CLEANSING

A sophisticated lipoamino acid that fuses collagen-derived proteins with a purifying fatty acid chain to balance oil production while reinforcing the skin's moisture barrier. This biomimetic ingredient serves as a dual-action agent, refining skin texture for acne-prone complexions without compromising hydration.

Skin-conditioning agent Sebum regulator Antimicrobial Surfactant Barrier repair

Science

This ingredient functions by inhibiting 5-alpha reductase, the enzyme responsible for sebum overproduction, while simultaneously providing antimicrobial benefits against P. acnes. By mirroring the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs), it maintains the integrity of the acid mantle and ensures optimal cellular hydration.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–2%
Optimal

2%

Key findings

  1. 01 8-week study on related lipoamino acids demonstrated a 32% reduction in skin flora (S. aureus, P. acnes) and significant sebum regulation.
  2. 02 Human Repeat Insult Patch Tests (HRIPT) on similar capryloyl-modified salts showed zero evidence of dermal irritation or sensitization.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.1%
Red flag below
0.05%

Effective at low concentrations (0.1%), this ingredient is rarely 'dusted' in premium formulations due to its specific functional role in sebum control and barrier repair.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 7
0 7 14

Stability

Highly stable in standard cosmetic matrices; however, as an amphoteric/anionic surfactant, its efficacy is optimized in slightly acidic environments.

Synergies

  • Hyaluronic Acid
  • Niacinamide
  • Salicylic Acid

Conflicts

  • Highly cationic ingredients
  • Strong oxidizing agents

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
2%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Deemed safe by the CIR Expert Panel when formulated to be non-irritating.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptional multi-tasking ingredient that masterfully bridges the gap between acne treatment and barrier preservation.


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