Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions by inhibiting 5-alpha reductase, the enzyme responsible for sebum overproduction, while simultaneously providing antimicrobial benefits against P. acnes. By mirroring the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factors (NMFs), it maintains the integrity of the acid mantle and ensures optimal cellular hydration.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence2%
Key findings
- 01 8-week study on related lipoamino acids demonstrated a 32% reduction in skin flora (S. aureus, P. acnes) and significant sebum regulation.
- 02 Human Repeat Insult Patch Tests (HRIPT) on similar capryloyl-modified salts showed zero evidence of dermal irritation or sensitization.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Effective at low concentrations (0.1%), this ingredient is rarely 'dusted' in premium formulations due to its specific functional role in sebum control and barrier repair.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable in standard cosmetic matrices; however, as an amphoteric/anionic surfactant, its efficacy is optimized in slightly acidic environments.
Synergies
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Niacinamide
- Salicylic Acid
Conflicts
- Highly cationic ingredients
- Strong oxidizing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
Deemed safe by the CIR Expert Panel when formulated to be non-irritating.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptional multi-tasking ingredient that masterfully bridges the gap between acne treatment and barrier preservation.
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References
Sources