Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions through its amphiphilic structure, where a hydrophilic polyglycerin-10 head group anchors in the water phase while lipophilic caprylic/capric fatty acid tails penetrate and encapsulate oil-based impurities. By reducing interfacial tension, it facilitates the formation of stable microemulsions and self-assembling nanoparticles that efficiently lift makeup and sebum away from the skin surface.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 Demonstrated superior ocular and skin mildness compared to traditional ethoxylated surfactants (PEG-6), showing a significantly lower irritation score of 8.4 in HET-CAM assays.
- 02 Proven to self-assemble into 100nm nanoparticles in aqueous solutions, providing high-efficacy removal of long-wear makeup and waterproof pigments.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
As a functional surfactant and solubilizer rather than a primary active, it is rarely 'dusted.' However, at levels below 1%, it may lack the power to stabilize complex oil-in-water systems or effectively cleanse high-pigment cosmetics.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly resilient across a broad thermal range and compatible with both cold and hot processing; serves as an excellent alternative to PEGs for solubilizing essential oils and lipophilic actives.
Synergies
- Cationic surfactants
- Lipophilic active ingredients
- Essential oils
Conflicts
- None reported; exhibits high compatibility across diverse cosmetic matrices
Safety
Safety Profile
While the CIR reports usage up to 31% in fragrance products, facial skincare typically utilizes concentrations between 1% and 10% for optimal safety and texture.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An essential, high-purity solubilizer for clean, PEG-free formulations that demand both high cleansing power and exceptional skin mildness.
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References
Sources