Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient functions by inhibiting the lipase activity of Cutibacterium acnes, which prevents the conversion of triglycerides into irritating free fatty acids. Additionally, it acts as a 5-alpha reductase inhibitor to modulate sebum production and utilizes selective antimicrobial action to target pathogenic bacteria while preserving the skin's beneficial microbiome.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence2%
Key findings
- 01 A 28-day clinical study at 1% concentration demonstrated a significant reduction in sebum levels and specific inhibition of C. acnes growth.
- 02 Testing at 2% showed effective control over odor-causing bacteria, including Corynebacterium xerosis and Malassezia furfur.
- 03 Inclusion in fermented oil complexes (1-5%) has been shown to enhance the absorption of fatty acids and accelerate skin barrier recovery.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
To achieve measurable physiological effects on sebum production and microbial balance, a minimum concentration of 1% is required; levels below 0.5% are typically insufficient for active performance.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly stable in aqueous systems and emulsions; compatible with cold-processing and remains stable across varying temperatures.
Synergies
- Fermented vegetable oils
- Zinc PCA
- Salicylic Acid
Conflicts
- Alkaline environments (pH > 8.0) which may degrade the active lactonic form
Safety
Safety Profile
Classified as a non-toxic, biodegradable biosurfactant with COSMOS and ECOCERT certification.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptionally versatile biotech active that delivers high-precision blemish control and oil regulation while maintaining skin barrier integrity.
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References
Sources