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CALOTHRIX CRUSTACEA.

Valuable / HUMECTANT, SKIN CONDITIONING

A resilient cyanobacterium extract that serves as a multi-functional marine bioactive, providing advanced photoprotection and cellular renewal. It is uniquely characterized by its natural retinoic acid content and biological UV-filters, offering a non-irritating alternative to traditional synthetic retinoids.

Biological UV-filter Anti-inflammatory Natural Retinoid Alternative Skin Conditioning

Science

This extract operates through a triple-action pathway: it utilizes Scytonemin and Mycosporine-like Amino Acids to absorb and dissipate up to 90% of UV energy as harmless heat, suppresses neurogenic inflammation by inhibiting pro-inflammatory cytokine signaling, and triggers RAR/RXR binding sites to stimulate collagen synthesis via natural all-trans-retinoic acid.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 0.1–5%
Optimal

2.5%

Key findings

  1. 01 Demonstrated 90% dissipation of absorbed UV energy via biological screening compounds.
  2. 02 Identified as a bio-available source of natural retinoic acids (at-RA and 13-cis-RA) for gene expression without irritation.
  3. 03 Significant inhibition of neurogenic inflammatory triggers in reactive skin models.

Transparency

Commonly dusted
Min. effective
0.1%
Red flag below
0.05%

Because it is a complex marine extract, brands often include it at negligible levels (below 0.1%) for marketing 'marine' claims; however, clinical data suggests a minimum of 0.1% for anti-inflammatory benefits and higher concentrations for retinoid-like activity.


The Formula

Solubility
Water
Optimal pH 5 – 7.5
0 7 14

Stability

While the UV-screening components are highly heat-stable, the natural retinoic acid fractions are prone to oxidation; airtight, UV-opaque packaging is recommended.

Synergies

  • Antioxidants (Vitamin E/Ferulic Acid) to protect lipid-soluble fractions
  • Broad-spectrum SPF filters

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • Ethanol concentrations above 20% (risk of polysaccharide precipitation)

Safety

CIR Status
Not reviewed
Max tested
5%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

Unlike synthetic retinoids, the natural retinoic acid levels found in this extract are generally considered safe for topical use during pregnancy, though consultation with a physician is advised.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
Yes Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptional precision ingredient for addressing both photo-aging and skin sensitivity through a unique bio-retinoid and UV-dissipating profile.


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