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CALCIUM STARCH ISODODECENYLSUCCINATE.

Valuable CAS 194810-88-3 / SKIN CONDITIONING, SKIN CONDITIONING - EMOLLIENT

A technologically advanced, hydrophobic modified starch designed to selectively manage surface lipids without disrupting the skin's moisture barrier. It functions as a precision texturizer that eliminates unwanted shine while imparting a refined, velvety finish to high-performance formulations.

Absorbent Viscosity controlling Skin conditioning Mattifying agent

Science

This ingredient utilizes a chemical modification that transforms standard starch into a water-repellent particle. It selectively binds to sebum and epidermal lipids through high-capacity absorption, effectively neutralizing greasiness on the skin surface. Simultaneously, it serves as a rheology modifier, enhancing the structural integrity and viscosity of emulsions for a more luxurious application experience.


Research

High confidence
Effective range 1–33%
Optimal

5%

Key findings

  1. 01 A 21-day cumulative irritation study on 23 subjects using a 50% concentration classified the material as a probable mild irritant, suggesting high biocompatibility at standard formulation levels.
  2. 02 Structural analog testing (OECD 401) demonstrated an LD50 exceeding 5,000 mg/kg, confirming an excellent systemic safety profile and low oral toxicity.

Transparency

Not commonly dusted
Min. effective
1%
Red flag below
0.5%

Typically utilized at functional levels between 1% and 33% for mattification; concentrations below 1% in oil-control products may indicate 'label claim' inclusion without significant performance benefits.


The Formula

Solubility
Insoluble
Optimal pH 4 – 7.5
0 7 14

Stability

Maintains structural integrity under standard conditions but is susceptible to hydrolysis and degradation if exposed to temperatures above 50°C or highly acidic environments.

Synergies

  • Sunscreen filters
  • Silicone elastomers
  • Mineral pigments

Conflicts

  • Strong oxidizing agents
  • pH environments below 3.0
  • Highly alkaline conditions (causes starch swelling)

Safety

CIR Status
Safe as used
Max tested
33%
Pregnancy
Safe
Sensitization risk Low

The CIR Expert Panel emphasized that for spray-based applications, particle size must be maintained above 10 microns to prevent potential inhalation issues.


Your Skin

Yes Normal
No Dry
Yes Oily
Yes Sensitive
Irritancy Low
Comedogenicity Low

Our Assessment

Valuable

An exceptional oil-management ingredient that provides a sophisticated matte finish and improved formula stability for oily and combination skin types.


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References