Science
Mechanism of Action
This ingredient operates via a dual-action pathway: first, it acts as a superior humectant with water-binding capabilities that exceed hyaluronic acid; second, it utilizes calcium ions to reset the epidermal calcium gradient. This ionic signaling triggers keratinocyte differentiation and the release of lamellar bodies, which are critical for the natural synthesis of moisturizing factors and barrier restoration.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence1.5%
Key findings
- 01 Concentrations of 3.0% have demonstrated a significant reduction in wrinkle depth by up to 35% alongside measurable increases in skin firmness.
- 02 Bioactive levels between 0.5% and 1.0% are clinically proven to accelerate skin barrier repair by restoring essential epidermal gradients.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
Because it is often marketed under the 'Polyglutamic Acid' umbrella, brands frequently use it at negligible levels (below 0.1%) for label claims. A minimum of 0.5% is required for functional barrier repair, and 3.0% for significant anti-aging results.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
The calcium salt variant offers superior hydrolytic stability compared to the free acid form, though it requires a neutral to slightly alkaline environment; degradation may occur if the pH exceeds 7.7.
Synergies
- Hyaluronic Acid
- Glycerin
- Ceramides
Conflicts
- Cationic surfactants
- Polyquaterniums
- Strong electrolytes
- Cationic polymers
Safety
Safety Profile
Classified as a non-irritating amino acid polymer with no known GHS hazards.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An elite humectant that provides superior hydration and structural barrier support, making it an essential upgrade from standard hyaluronic acid formulations.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…