Science
Mechanism of Action
It triggers the production of filaggrin, a critical precursor to the skin's Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF), which subsequently elevates urea and amino acid levels. This process, combined with the stimulation of osmoregulatory proteins, allows keratinocytes to maintain optimal water volume and osmotic balance under environmental stress while providing secondary antioxidant protection via its rich phenolic content.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence3%
Key findings
- 01 In-vitro analysis at 1.0% demonstrated a significant upregulation of filaggrin and urea synthesis within human keratinocytes.
- 02 Clinical trials utilizing 3.0% showed improved barrier integrity and sustained hydration levels for up to 24 hours.
- 03 In-vitro bioactivity testing confirmed an IC50 of 0.59 mg/mL for tyrosinase inhibition, indicating skin-brightening potential.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While frequently included in botanical blends at negligible amounts for marketing purposes, clinical data indicates that a minimum concentration of 1.0% is required to effectively stimulate NMF synthesis and barrier repair.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Highly sensitive to thermal degradation; must be incorporated during the cooling phase (below 40°C). Its flavonoid profile is sensitive to extreme pH shifts.
Synergies
- Glycerin
- Urea
- Ceramides
- Niacinamide
Conflicts
- Strong oxidizing agents
- pH environments below 4.0 or above 8.0
Safety
Safety Profile
Recognized as a safe skin conditioning agent in the EU CosIng database and commonly utilized in dermatological formulations for hypersensitive skin.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An exceptional ingredient for precision hydration that bridges the gap between botanical extracts and functional barrier-repair actives.
Related
Similar Ingredients
Finding similar ingredients…
References
Sources