Science
Mechanism of Action
This synthetic peptide functions as a cellular messenger that triggers the synthesis of collagen and other essential proteins within the extracellular matrix. The attached caffeic acid moiety provides potent polyphenol antioxidant protection against oxidative damage while specifically inhibiting the enzymes responsible for melanin production, resulting in improved skin tone and elasticity.
Research
Clinical Evidence
Medium confidence0.1%
Key findings
- 01 Clinical assessments of a 0.1% solution delivered via ethosomes demonstrated measurable improvements in wrinkle depth and skin-whitening through the inhibition of melanin and stimulation of collagen.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
As a high-cost synthetic peptide, it is frequently included in formulations at symbolic concentrations (ppm levels) to support marketing claims. To achieve the regenerative and whitening results noted in patent data, the concentration should ideally be near 0.1% of the peptide solution.
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Stable in aqueous environments but highly sensitive to thermal degradation above 70°C and extreme pH shifts. For maximum efficacy, it is best utilized within liposomal or ethosomal delivery systems to ensure deep dermal penetration.
Synergies
- Hyaluronic acid
- Niacinamide
- Non-acidic antioxidants
Conflicts
- Strong acids (AHA/BHA)
- Proteolytic enzymes
- Strong oxidizing agents
Safety
Safety Profile
While not yet formally reviewed by the CIR, this ingredient belongs to the tripeptide family, which is widely recognized as safe in cosmetic applications with low irritation potential.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
A high-performance hybrid peptide that offers excellent multi-pathway benefits for aging and hyperpigmentation, provided it is formulated at active concentrations.
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References
Sources