Science
Mechanism of Action
This zwitterionic copolymer functions via 'superhydrophilicity,' self-assembling into a multi-layered lamellar structure upon skin contact. Its C4-18 alkyl chains provide strong skin substantivity, allowing it to anchor a super-hydrated film to the surface that traps water molecules and prevents the adhesion of external irritants and bacteria.
Research
Clinical Evidence
High confidence5%
Key findings
- 01 Formation of a biomimetic moisture barrier that significantly reduces transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and maintains integrity even after washing.
- 02 Enhanced skin-feel and sustained hydration in pigmented cosmetic formulations without irritation.
Transparency
Dusting Analysis
While it provides sensory benefits at very low levels (0.18%), the true barrier-repair and wash-resistant properties require concentrations closer to 5%. Formulations using it solely for marketing claims without reaching the threshold for lamellar formation are considered 'dusted.'
The Formula
Formulation
Stability
Exhibits exceptional stability in high-salt environments (up to 5.0 mol/L NaCl) and remains robust across a broad alkaline pH range. It can also act as a stabilizing host for lipophilic actives like Vitamin E.
Synergies
- Vitamin E
- Phospholipids
- Ceramides
Safety
Safety Profile
Extensively reviewed by the CIR in 2022 and found to be non-irritating and safe for leave-on applications.
Your Skin
Skin Compatibility
Our Assessment
Verdict
An elite biomimetic film-former that provides superior, wash-resistant hydration and barrier reinforcement for compromised skin.
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